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My '09 Street Bob ignition switch won't turn. I've traditionally attempted to keep it lubed with graphite. I also drowned it in WD40 and another silicone based lube that doesn't attract dirt. No dice. Is there anything else I can try? The service manual calls for purging the system of high pressure fuel before lifting the tank to get to the components, but I can't get the thing to turn at all. So, no purging most likely. Can it be done without completely lifting the tank that much? There is also a HD specific tool noted to be required to remove the assembly - Hd-47853 Ignition Switch/Fork Lock Wrench. Are there any work arounds to using that or is it pretty much required?
I also got my spare key that has never been used and it also will not turn. I'm running out of ideas on this one. Thanks!
The tool has two pins that fit in the two holes on opposite sides of the switch. Often you can use the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers. If it's hard to turn, put a screw driver between the legs of the pliers to use as a lever. Turn the nut clockwise to loosen the lock in the neck (IIRC).
Are you sure the fork lock isn't jamming the lock? Once you loosen the lock in the neck, you may be able to turn the key.
The tool has two pins that fit in the two holes on opposite sides of the switch. Often you can use the tips of a pair of needle nose pliers. If it's hard to turn, put a screw driver between the legs of the pliers to use as a lever. Turn the nut clockwise to loosen the lock in the neck (IIRC).
Are you sure the fork lock isn't jamming the lock? Once you loosen the lock in the neck, you may be able to turn the key.
I'm not certain, but the ignition got stuck in the 'on' position on my last ride and I couldn't even get it to turn off. It wasn't supposed to be engaging the fork lock between 'on' and 'off' to my knowledge. Only when it goes from 'off' to the 'lock' position.
1. No you don't have to have the tool
2. You can do it without removing the tank
Cool. Thanks!
Originally Posted by John CC
Correct. (unfortunately). Maybe still could be some sort of "linkage" issue. Did you try spraying lubricant on the fork lock side?
That's what I was wondering, but I almost ruled it out since it doesn't want to just switch off from on or back to on from off. No going into the lock position involved.
I'll take a closer look before dropping $118 on the new part with new keys.
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