1998 wide glide issues
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Ct
1998 wide glide issues
I was out for a ride on my 1998 dyna wide glide when all power shut off mid ride i was shifting from 1st to 2nd and it just died. I just replaced stator and regulator also a new battery a few weeks ago. At first I thought the stator was bad that's why it died on me but battery reads at 12.83 volts. I tested the power going into the ignition and the middle wire has 12.79 volts to it. When I put the ignition to run mode a loud click happens from the little 2 post breaker box that hooks up to the battery and the stator. No dash lights headlights horn or anything come on like it has no battery at all. I drove it about 50 miles from the time I replaced battery stator and regulator. What should I test next. I did try to jump a wire from middle wire to the side wires near ignition switch but the wire I was using was a little to fat and sparked a bit so I stoped. This bike has breakers no fuses. Thanks in advance guys
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 2,202
From: College Station, TX
It would be best to start your first with an introduction, and you might consider adding a signature to your profile that includes the bike(s) you have.
Check for power on both side of the breaker on the battery after the loud click sound. If there is no power, then the breaker is bad or there is a short tripping the breaker. I believe the 98 Dyna Wide Glide has a total of 4 breakers.
If you don't have a genuine HD factory service manual (no Clymers manuals), you would benefit greatly from having one to assist in diagnosing this problem and locating the breakers as well as identifying what each one does.
Paul
Check for power on both side of the breaker on the battery after the loud click sound. If there is no power, then the breaker is bad or there is a short tripping the breaker. I believe the 98 Dyna Wide Glide has a total of 4 breakers.
If you don't have a genuine HD factory service manual (no Clymers manuals), you would benefit greatly from having one to assist in diagnosing this problem and locating the breakers as well as identifying what each one does.
Paul
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Ct
Thanks for the response bro and I will update account. But I have an update on issue. I just pulled battery loose ground at neg terminal so I tightened it up and well the lights came on fixed so I thought. Started bike up let it warm up was going to dive around alittle as soon as I backed up and threw it in gear bike died again. But I now have accessory mode brake lights work singals work but if I switch to run mode the breaker clicks and I lose all power. When I wait 10 seconds I hear the breaker click back to closed and I can put it in accessory mode no issues. Only dies in run mode now.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 3,159
Likes: 2,202
From: College Station, TX
It sounds like something on that circuit is drawing too many amps (shorted to ground?), causing the circuit braker to trip. A good amp meter would be helpful to diagnose this problem, along with a wiring schematic to help identify what all is hot in the run mode that isn't in the accessory position.
How many wires are connected to the braker? If there are several, start by disconnecting them one at a time to see if the problem changes. But you still need to know where the wiring goes when it leaves the braker. One should be to the charging system.
Paul
How many wires are connected to the braker? If there are several, start by disconnecting them one at a time to see if the problem changes. But you still need to know where the wiring goes when it leaves the braker. One should be to the charging system.
Paul
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Ct
Yea it's three wires one from battery on the same post as charging system other post runs into the wire loom. It's weird both acc and run didn't work but once I fixed loose connection at battery now acc works. It's late now I'll start testing wires tomorrow I have a multi meter. Could a bad head light cause this because in acc head light does not come on but in run it does. I'll also take the button cluster on handle bars apart that goes to the start button. Weird that it let me warm up bike then died again. Thanks for the responses.
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2nd Gear
Joined: Apr 2024
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Ct
Ok so I think I found the issue 2 things. I unplugged head light and saw some corrosion on the prongs cleaned that up and worked alittle better but died after few min. I then took off negative cable off the frame side from the top no corrosion to be seen but underneath where it makes connection all corroded. I cleaned it up as well and so far so good. Was a bad ground I think I'll update again after taking it for a ride. Thanks again for your help
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 21,014
Likes: 7,543
From: Poolville
So you said that the lead from the battery and the regulator wire are on the same post of the breaker..?? Not good.. You have no protection for the charging system.. Battery to one post (copper) and regulator to the other..
I know on my 98 Fatboy the power for the 30 amp main breaker comes off the battery cable on the starter solenoid..
I know on my 98 Fatboy the power for the 30 amp main breaker comes off the battery cable on the starter solenoid..
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2010
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From: Directly above the center of the Earth
I private messaged him to let him know I have a pdf file with *ALL* the wiring diagrams for all the models for 1998. I haven't heard back from him.
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From: DFW
If yes, I would be interested in the pdf file.
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