My bike is a 99 FXDWG wideglide first year the Twin Cam. So after last year when the stator/regulator plug melted, and I had to cut it and splice it together it still ran good and charged quiet a few more months ( prolly 5 or more) before it was just , NOT STARTING, the I figured since the battery was old, I just bought a new Gel battery same price as the non Gel with the same cranking amps that fit the bike. Ok been going on 3 weeks now of testing and new regulators and other test., trying to get this solved after I bought a new battery in October, I would ride to work about 5 or 6 miles and when the bike sat for 8 hours it would not start up, like the battery was dead. so for a few weeks I would just keep it charging on the battery tender. Then I started looking further into this issue and come to see that it could be (most likely now) the charging system. after a few 8 or so youtube videos on how to check stator and voltage regulator, then I checked them quiet a few times to make sure what was going on. Here is my finding cause the math ain't mathing on this thing at all. So the stator is not shorted to ground, as each wire tested ( 2 wire plug) to ground for continuity, none there, that is good, A/C volt test idling its puts out 20v or so, cranked up I am able to get up to 53v or more, so that should tell its fine correct???? Next I checked the voltage regulator, only getting 12.4 or so volts to the battery, figured that was dead, so next I bought a new Voltage regulator, was sure after installed it I would get 14v to the battery.........Well still same voltage 12.4 - 12.6 whatever was still in the 12 volt range. more youtube videos, take the hot wire from the regulator remove and go straight to the battery instead of the main fuse, test that way....NOPE still 12ish, ok take the hot from the regulator and test from the ground of it to the hot with it plugged in, nothing, figured I got a bad one form the factory, returned it got a new one yesterday, a diff brand to make sure that could not get 2 bad ones in a row, same results only 12v to battery,, I removed the hot from the main fuse of the regulator tested straight from the Reg ground and the hot to the meter, with it plugged into the stator, but the hot wire just not hooked to nothing supposed to see 14 from the Regulator I also should mention I took a drill with a metal brush and cleaned off the frame where the regulator ground goes and even bought new bolts to make sure its grounded good.
I guess I need to test the stator while its plugged into the regulator under a load and the motor is hot and see if it still gets the voltage and not grounged after it gets hot? any other test I should do????

 

When you have the time the test results mentioned in this sticky would be very helpful to anyone trying to help you.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/elect...sting-1-a.html

Good luck WP

 

Sorry, that wall of text is just too much for my old eyes to read.

 

Was the battery charged while you were doing the tests?

Your reported results would seem to indicate a bad regulator, but since you have tried several, it must be something else. I'd first recheck all the connections to the regulator, especially the ones from the stator. Did you test the resistance of the stator coil? Also a good idea to test stator voltage while it's all connected.

 

yeah I was getting around .4 to .5 ohms on the stator, the battery was charged I can leave it on the battery tender/charge it up to 13+. if I test the battery before a short ride says its 12.7 then ride a few miles it drops to 12.3 or so after the ride so its not charging up at all.

 

Umm what little I've read .4-.5 ohms is twice what the spec is for a 32 amp stator. .1-.2 ohms is what I'm reading. Did you mention what amp system you have?
How ever I would NOT condemn the stator just yet
You sound like you have a good idea of what your doing.

2 thoughts If the battery is showing 12 -12.5 volts. With volt meter connected at the battery crank the motor. see if battery drops below 10 volts while cranking.
If it does you have a questionable battery.

If possible measure the resistance (ohms) from the regulator s ground to the neg side of battery.
Just to see

best of luck

WP

 

1. Fully charge the battery off the bike, then let it sit for a few hours and check the voltage, then let it sit overnight and check the voltage again and see if there is much difference.

2. System check procedures below:HD Battery/Stator/Regulator Test

1. Battery Test:

The battery needs to be a fully charged battery that has been load tested to ensure proper readings. If you are not working with a fully charged and functional battery, all other voltage tests will be incorrect. Most places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys will charge and test motorcycle batteries for free. Standing battery Voltage should be 12.5-13.2 DCV.

2. Charging System Voltage Test:

Start motorcycle, Measure DC Volts across the battery terminals (you should have a reading of approximately 13.2-15 DC Volts).

3. Check Connections/Wires:

Inspect the regulator/stator plug, and check the battery terminals for connection/corrosion. If everything seems to be in order, move on to number 4 below to determine if there’s a failed component.

4. Stator Checks/Rotor Check:

Each of the following tests isolate the stator & Rotor, If AC Output test Fails and Resistance Check, and Stator IB Test Pass then Rotor is at fault (Pull Primary covers and inspect rotor for damage).

AC Output Check:
Unplug the regulator plug from the stator
Start motorcycle and change Voltmeter to AC volts.
Probe both stator wires with your meter leads.
The motorcycle should be putting out approximately 18-20 ACV per 1,000 rpm. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual specification)

Generic Specs:

22 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm
32 amp system produces about 16-20 VAC per 1,000 rpm
45 amp system produces about 19-26 VAC per 1,000 rpm

Stator Resistance Check:

Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wires with meter leads and check resistance on meter.
Resistance should be in the range of 0.1-0.5 Ohms. (Reading will vary depending on system, check service manual for specification)

Generic Specs:

22 amp system produces about 0.2 to 0.4 ohms
32 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms
45 amp system produces about 0.1 to 0.2 ohms

Stator IB test or Ground Check:

Switch your multi meter to Ohm x 1 scale.
Probe each stator wire with your positive lead on multi meter and the negative to ground.

There should be no continuity to ground on either wire.
If there is continuity to ground your stator is shorted to ground.

5. Regulator Test:

Each of the following tests isolates the regulator only, so if any of these tests fail, the regulator is at fault.

Identifying Wires:

Battery Charge Lead- Wire going from regulator to battery positive.
AC output leads- Wires coming from the Stator to regulator.
Ground- Wire from Regulator to ground or regulator may be grounded via the physical bolting to chassis.
Regulator Ground Test: Insure the regulator body is grounded or grounding wire is fastened tight to a good ground (you should verify this by checking continuity from regulator body to chassis ground).
Fwd/Reverse Bias Test/Diode Test: This check is testing the Diode function to ensure it is regulating the AC current for the stator into DC Current.
Switch multi meter to Diode Scale.
Place your Multi meter positive lead on each AC output wire.
Place your multi meter negative lead on the battery Charge wire.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the AC output wires and the Positive lead on the Battery Charge Wire.
The reading should be Infinite.
With your meter on the same setting, place your multi meter positive lead on the regulator ground wire or to the regulator directly, and then place your meter negative lead on the AC output leads.
The meter should read voltage typically around .5 volts.
Next, switch your multi meter leads putting the negative lead on the regulator ground and the Positive lead on the AC output wires.
The reading should be Infinite.

Note: Below is a table to show the readings:

Positive Lead Negative Lead Reading
AC output 1 Battery charge lead Voltage
AC output 2 Battery Charge Lead Voltage
Battery charge lead AC output 1 ∞
Battery charge lead AC output 2 ∞
Ground AC output 1 Voltage
Ground AC output 2 Voltage
AC output 1 Ground ∞
AC output 2 Ground ∞

 

Get a better battery tender.

The battery voltage after fully charge, quick start and keep the Rs at say 2000, should go to 14.0-14.4 within a minute or 2.

 

battery stays around 12.3 12-5 ish no higher than that

seems to be a 32amp system on that year/model hmmmm

 

Since it does that I'd think the battery is ok.
With all you have already done and I'm thinking you regulator gets it ground through the regulator mounting the way you describe it.
Try to find a way to test the ground circuit to know absolutely it is solid. (Reg to - battery)The system relies on a good ground as well.

My Ultra has a ground wire to the regulator that got damaged and caused charging problems until I found it

WP