I'mshort with a short inseamandgot a 2007 FXDL.Well, the standard foot pegs ( mid controls) just are not comfortable for me to rest myfeeton for long rides. Even though I sit all the way forward to the edge of my tank,my legs justarent long enough reach the forward highway pegs. Yep, It's pretty sad.
I've already burned some of the rubber off my right sole from resting it on the pipes to get comfortable, and I'm always trying to adjust my feet to find a good spot to rest them on. I want to geta peg that's got a larger area and that'sa bitmore flat and / or something with a heel rest for both sides of the bike. I came acrossa couple while looking atcatalogs. I'm wondering if any of my fellow DynaLow Riders have experiences withthe type of foot rest/ heel rest I'm referring to. One I saw is called a Mini Bullet Boardsmade by Dr. Boot and is4 1/4" wide by 6" long and it even has a heel guard lipalong the back edges. The other is made by Joker Machineand is a one piece mouldeddesignedbillet style flat footpeg that extends backwardswith abuilt in heel rest. These arent for passengers, but for riders.
Any input, experience or recommendations you guys can give me will really be appreciated. I dont need or even want anything fancy dancy.....just something with a good amount of rubber, witha good grip andwith a wide foot rest& heelsupport. Again I have to be able touse themwithMID CONTROLS.

Thanks!!

 

Sorry, no experiance with this. However, the mount for forward controls in closer than the hightway pegs. It's like the peg is placed right where the highway peg support bolts to the frame. Maybe you could just mount your pegs there and use those for longer rides. You'd probalby just need a part or two from the HD forward mounting hardware to do it... just a thought.

Sorry I'm not more help. Good luck.

 

Thanks........ this is even worse..... I wear a size 6 shoe, and I canbarely use the shifter peg with my heel flat up againstmy current peg. When I go to shift, I literallyhave to lift upmy boot so the heel is on top of the foot peg so as to get enough of the top part of my boot underneath the peg to shift upinto 2,3,4,5 and 6!!!So, any type offorward controls are probably out of the question for me, unless I go to extreme expense to get custom work done.

 

how tall are you?? It sounds like you need to be riding in a sidecar. Ride safe

 

Part One
How to fabricate highway peg mounts when the world is built wrong for your size.

LWOS Who said that you can not make them yourself? Let us start with the problems you mentioned. Forward highway pegs. That is easy.
[ol][*]Get some ½” plywood, cardboard, and tools (read it through first) to perform the following tasks. We are going to make highway peg brackets which attach onto your existing O.E.M. forward control/highway peg mounts.[*]First start on a level flat surface such as a clean concrete garage floor or a table lift. Make sure there is ample room for your working in comfort. We will call this the "working surface".[*]Start by snapping a chalk line on the working surface.[*]Now roll the bike onto and over the chalk line making sure your tires are centered. This will be used to get the pegs even so you do not have one peg closer to you than the other peg. Some of the things OCC does not teach you there Spike.[*]Take some lightweight cardboard and make a template around your motor.[*]You are going to have to make a ¾” spacer out of plywood that is exactly near the F.C. mount. It will look like a crescent.[*]Trace the primary cover for clearance.[*]Transfer the shape of the cardboard onto the plywood and cut the plywood out. Keep as much on the plywood for mounting option locations. Do not make it pretty, we will do that later. Refer to the yellow piece on the photo of your bike.[*]Mount the spacer and piece of plywood onto your O.E.M. welded frame forward control/highway peg mount. See photo.[*]Replete for both sides (left and right side of the bike).[*]Make sure the mounting holes are accurate and tight to the bolts as you are going to transfer this shape onto aluminum with a hole transfer punch.
[/ol]It is 2:30 am Sat. morning so I am tired. If you think this is something you would like to try, go for it. If you think this is worthwhile and are going to do it, we than can tackle your next minor problem. You let me know.
[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/40D9B2ECDB7947CAA0259FD46FBD2318.jpg[/IMG]

 

Part Two
How to fabricate highway peg mounts when the world is built wrong for your size.

[ol][*]NOTE* Use 2 X 4’s to get your bike at near a 90 degree angle (straight up).A better option would be a cherry picker and strap(s) attached to your front end/handlebars. Make sure if you wrap the handlebars, lock the strap from rotating if only using one.[*]Sit on the bike as if you are riding it. Have your friend hold the peg solid and you rest your feet on them.[*]Move the pegs around until you feel comfortable (you may use a mounting block and a pair of C-Clamps which is a better way and more accurate).[*]After you are sure that both side pegs are comfortable to you, mark the locations.[*]With a carpenters square, drop both peg mounting holes locations onto the working surface.[*]With a point, mark the both locations. Find the most comfortable measurement and make both the same distance by going off of you “X” line with your square (90 degrees) and extend the line.[*]Now measure up the same distance for both and mark so your legs are extended equally and at the same position. You are centered and feel equal. See photo below.[*]Mark the hole, drill the mounting holes for the peg. Mount the peg.[*]Space the peg out with the same size square stock you already have for a spacer connected to the peg.[*]You can solidly try out your new highway pegs. Have your friends steady your bike upright.[*]Once this is done remove the pegs and plywood mounts.[*]Mark all centers with a hole transfer punch onto a piece of cardboard. Now get creative and use a French Curve and make it fit and look good to you. Cut the cardboard out to a nice shape.[*]Transfer the cardboard template onto the plywood and cut with a band saw or jig saw.[*]Remount plywood template.[*]If you are satisfied, transfer the cardboard template onto a piece of series 60 / ½” aluminum plate.[*]Cut and finish.[*]If you are satisfied with your work, than finish to taste, stand back and admire your work as you did something no one else has.[*]If you are married, show your wife and gloat while strutting around the house for a few hours. If you bring up the subject enough she will leave you alone for a while.[*]If you are single, maybe go to the bar and show your handiwork to all of the girls. If you buy enough drinks for them you might even get laid. Maybe?[/ol] It is 2:30 am Sat. morning so I am tired. If you think this is something you would like to try, go for it. If you think this is worthwhile and are going to do it, we than can tackle your next minor problem. You let me know. I got up this morning and added to this post to clarify.

[IMG]local://upfiles/29413/A5858924AEE4445DB052A586F09AA4F6.jpg[/IMG]

 

my wife has the same problem. the problem with any footboards or wider highway pegs is they will extend backward far enough that you will hit your shins many times when trying to back the bike or push it forward when maneuvering. heel rests are exactly the wrong thing because they are exactly where your legs are when you have your feet on the ground. we bought a pair of the mini adjustable thin floorboards from custom chrome that can be moved forward about an inch and also rotate 360 degrees - theycan be adjusted so that they are no further back than the original highway pegs, but they are unfortunately about 1-1/2" farther out due to the adjustable arms. my wife found them to be the most comfortable peg/footboard system for her on a temporary basis.

there are two permanent solutions. we went to a set of the dyna defender (police) footboards and my wife absolutely loves them. they are now obsolete, but can be ordered piece by piece from hd - expensive, but well worth it - my wife rides all the time now, whereas she used to wait for someone to ride with her in case she needed some help maneuvering the bike when stopped.
the other option is to come up with a mount to use forward controls that reduces the reach by about 2-3". i have a hand drawn schematic for such a mount that was sent to me from a fellow forum member. he made it out of a flat piece of metal, drilled the holes for mounting, and painted it black. you would have to buy the standard forward controls (brake pedal, shifter pedal, and whatever pegs you wanted), but would need only to get a shifter linkage and brake linkage to match the needed lengths. takes a little mechanical ability, but not too hard. my wife would highly recommend the dyna defender footboard kit.

we found all the floorboards that fit into standard highway peg clevis's to be unsatisfactory with the exception of the mini adjustable version noted above. if you ever go to the defender footboard kit or the reduced reach forward control set-up, you will never consider the others again.

 

How about the Kuryakyn switchblade pegs. regular pegs that have a heel rest swing out when you need/ want them.

 

Thank you all so much for your input, advise, recommendations and custom instructions. drdave had some good points that I didnt think of..... regarding foot placement getting on and off the bike, moving forward and backwards.
I'll have to check out the switchblade model. That might be an answer for me if they can be tucked away until you're ready for them.
I just received a letter from Harley-Davidsonthat I have 1 of only 3 Dyna Low Riders produced world wide......in their custom order color of Dark Green and Light Green Envy, and mine unitwas the first one off the line of the 3 that were made. That being the case, I really dont want to be drilling holes and radically changing anything consideringit's such a rare factorycolor.
It also just dawned on me that if I put a heel rest or floor board, I'll never be able toget myheel under it toget tomy kick stand.
The more I think about it, the moreI mightlook into that switchblade or defender footboard kit.
Again, thanks for you input and suggestions.

 

You might try a larger, flatter footpegs and shifter peglike HD Stealth Collection. I have larger 0-ring pegs, but they were still not big enough to keep my heel off the pipe. It's no longer a problem with the 2-1 pipes because they sit a little lower. The Lindby engine guard also sits a lot closer than the HD one. You can get foot pegs for either guard that fold down on the inside of the guard, which is closer to your body. I have a whole set up of bar mounts & pegs that I will be putting up for sale shortly. Pegs have iso-pads and stirrups/heel rests. Will shoot some pix of the pegs and post in a little bit. The mounts are pretty simple to install.
Here's how I'm set up now. I'm 5'9 with a 30" inseam.