No, an adaptor wont make a differance as it is torque. Its a sheer thing not tensile. 75lbs wont get it done for ya. The only way to get a better understanding of your ride mechanically, is doing the work.with a decent set of tools there really isnt anything you cant do to your bike. Granted your not gonna start doing lower end work or porting and polishing your heads. But routine mainteance and mods? For sure you can do it. Just get the right tools and the manual.

 

I agree with you on learning by doing it. I know I can do it but a new torque wrench is going to cost me another $75 plus a new socket, etc. And, I've never really needed a torque wrench before and bought the one I have just for the bike. So, I don't know that I'll need 2 torque wrenches often enough to justify the cost vs. just going ahead and eat the cost of getting this cover installed. I won't be installing my own tires so I really won't be removing and installing the rear wheel very much if ever again.

I'm definitely taking the mindset to look into doing any and all work myself before deferring to an indy or the dealer from now on. Especially fluid changes and general maint. I've already bought 2 of those infamous $100+ oil changes at the dealer. Not doing that anymore.

On this job, I'm trying to assess the entire project from start to finish instead of getting stuck in the middle of it with no easy way to defer to someone that knows what they are doing to bail me out. Technically, I think I can handle this, especially if I take my time and read/follow the manual. But, I have to consider short and long term cost as well. I have a friend with a ton of tools and he probably has the socket I need and maybe even the 1/2" adapter (which I don't mind buying) but I know for a fact he loaned his torque wrenches to someone who never brought them back and now can't find them. Maybe I can find someone else with a torque wrench I can borrow.

In any case, I appreciate, as always, the fast and knowledgable responses I got from you and everyone on this forum!

 

Found out I had the wrong torque wrench period. Was rated for 25 to 250 in. lbs, not foot lbs. Traded for the correct type today so just waiting on dyna frame blocks for lifting before I try this.

If anyone can give me a step by step (don't have to go into great detail) of the easiest way to just remove the rear wheel, attach the new sprocket cover and reinstall the wheel with any possible shortcuts, I'd appreciate it. I have pages from the service manual as far as actual detail goes. Just not sure if there are some steps I can skip or make easier from a technical perspective given my actual goal of just replacing the sprocket cover. Can I do this without affecting belt tension and alignment or am I going to have to readjust all that regardless?

 

I think that you may be over thinking this. Id loosen the belt tension because it just makes it easier. Count the nuber of turns that you turn the adjusters then reverse when you put it back then double check the wheel alignment and be done with it. I wouldnt worry alot about using a torque wrench on an axle nut either just put the nut back on tight.

 

gibs, don't remove the line or cover

just hang the caliper out of the way.

Belt tension, yeah check it. No big deal.

mud

 

07, I agree with Joe that you are overthinking this,
and spooking yourself.

You can do it by following the shop manual.
Maybe not the removing the upper belt guard part.

Just give yourself plenty of time,
and above all - be careful, don't get hurt.

When you lift the machine for this type of operation,
I recommend supporting the front, cause you are going to
be taking a bunch of weight off the rear,
as well as applying some strong rotational energy
as you loosen and the retorque the axle nut and the shox.

I strap down for this myownself.

Use a floor jack under the tire to lower then raise the wheel.

post # 9, 10, and 11 here
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...ml#post2469782


Some machines have an interference issue with the mufflers
when removing the axle.
If so, when you reinstall, poke it in from the opposite side.

As far as counting the turns on the adjuster's nuts,
that's fine, I guess.
But, then you are assuming that the tension was correct to begin with.
Check tension before disassembly
and/or after reassembly.

If you can, get your friend with the the tools over to help
and/or just to provide an extra set of eyes.
Sometimes two heads are better than one.

Speaking of heads,
I can't think of anything else off the top of mine.
Tired of typing anyway.

mud

 

A friend is a definate help like Mud said two heads are better than one, and 4 hands are a plus when putting the axle back in to help line everything up. Learning toset the belt tension would be a plus too because once you see how easy it is to remove your wheel its just a matter of time before youre changing your own tires. I set mine by feel but Im not sure how to tell you to learn that. I learned by having an old grey beard checking over my work and telling me if it was too loose or tight.

 

You guys tell me I'm over-thinking it and then tell me to be careful of this thing and that so I'm not so sure I am over-thinking it. Sounds like, what I'm hearing is, I may be able to get away with removing the upper belt guard and also with not completely removing the caliper (just move out of way) but I should loosen the belt tension and I do need to recheck alignment when done right? I can already tell I need to remove at least one of my mufflers and my rear axle covers before even beginning.

Thanks - will check back in when I get my dyna frame blocks and give this a shot.