I made a mess when I pulled the old oil filter off. I put two holes in it to allow it to drain, but there was still quite a bit of oil that dropped out when I turned it off. The air cleaner and breather lines are all fine.

The spark plugs were torqued to 15 ft/lbs last night and I just ran out to check them and the back plug was loose! I'm sure that was my problem and I never thought to recheck them since I torqued them down.

Thanks for the responses ya'll were very helpfull!

Chris

 

I went for a ride today thinking my problem was solved. About 10 minutes into the ride, once the bike got warm the problem reared its ugly head again, but not as bad as it was before. I guess I will need to check the wiring.

 

Did you pull the plug which you found loose? May it have fouled since there was improper firing on that cylinder?

 

Yes I pulled it and it was fine, but I did clean it anyway before I put it back in. I retested the torque this afternoon and it was fine. I pulled the wiring from the front end near the voltage regulator where I washed the oil off and checked all the connectors and they were all fine, no water or oil in the connectors.

I rechecked the oil levels and they are all fine as well. For some reason I think the engine is going into overheat mode. It's the only explanation I can think of. On my ride yestereday it missed and hesitated at almost every light I stopped at. Today it was running alot better and only missed and hesitated 3 times.

 

were the plugs from harley? or are they a aftermarket plug? try firing the bike up at night and look to see if you see any arcing from the coil or plug wires.

 

The bike only has 1100 miles on it and the engine, plugs, coil are all original. I have only added some trim pieces and the Harley alarm system. The bike ran great until I did the 1000 mile service which bothers me. I rechecked everything I did with the engine and I can't find where I could have caused this to happen except the spark plug being loose and the negative terminal being slightly coroded, but both are fixed now.

 

mine did this when it was running WAY too rich, I have a carb though..

 

You sure of that CC??
Disregard the following if your answer is yes.

1- Turn Ignition switch to OFF & Run/Stop switch is to Run.

2- Push odometer reset button in & hold.

3- Turn ignition switch to Ignition and release odometer reset button.
Background lighting should illuminate, speedometer needle should sweep its full range
and indicator lamps (battery, security, low fuel, check engine and cruise) should illuminate.
The word “diag” should then appear.

4 - Push the odometer reset button once and you will see the selection menu

"PSSPt" with the first P flashing.

5 - Each letter represents an area of the diagnostics module.
The module that is flashing is the one you are going to check.
To move from one letter (module) to the next, you push the odometer reset button one time.

(from P to S to SP to t and back to P, etc.)

P = ECM/ICM (Electronic Control Module [EFI] / Ignition Control Module [Carbureted])
S = TSM/TSSM (Turn Signal/ Turn Signal Security Module)
SP = speedometer
T = tachometer

6 - To get the DTC within an area of diagnostics, push and hold the odometer reset button in for 5 seconds and release.
If there are any DTC’s the code will be displayed or the word “none” will appear if there are no DTC’s.
Push the odometer reset button again to view additional codes if they exist.

7 - Record the codes.

8 - If DTC’s are not to be cleared, Press and release the odometer reset button.
Part number of module will be displayed.
NOTE: To determine if a code is current or historic, clear the displayed code by pushing in and
holding the odometer reset button ( longer than 5 seconds) until 'clear' comes up.
Release the odometer reset button. Turn OFF the ignition switch.
Run your bike and shut it down then recheck the DTC’s again by repeating steps 1 to 9.
If the code is current it will reappear.

9 – Press and release the odometer reset button to continue to the next module.

10 – Turn Ignition switch to OFF.

mud

 

Ditto to Josephgarcia's comment.
I had the exact problem with hesitation and misfiring, so bad I cooked my ignition coil.
After a tune up , granted I have a carb, it was running a little rich, but because I would choke it, the plugs would foul weekly.
I only choke it to start it cold, then cut it back and use the throttle lock after about a minute.
Seems fine now.

 

okay, all this occurred after doing the thousand mile check.you pulled the plugs, was the plug to the head temp sensor disturbed? when the oil filter was loosened did you clip the wires to the crank position sensor, the plug looking thing down by the oil filter where an oil filter wrench could play havoc with it or the wiring. Did you check the crank position sensor plug for oil or water? That's the problem with electric bikes, too many sensors controlling ignition. Sorry I can't help you out any further, maybea HD tech will chime in.