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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I use locktite cause then you do not have to torque them down as much... dyna's being rubber mounted vibrate like crazy... you loose one or two screws and your will start to loose fluid... that just leads to bad news!
So are the screws just really cheap or did Hercules himself put them in?? I'll have to remember to take it as easy as possible on them when trying to get them out. Would it be better to have hex heads in there instead??
Dave
The problem IMO is that the depth of the torx head is too shallow and you can't get a very good bite on them. Yes I would say a good hex/allen head would be better. Take my advice and buy yourself one of those impact drivers. The screwscome out undamaged and if you chose to put them back in then using this will do a good job as well.
Agreed i changed out my bolts... stock is just cheap... and i put a random bolt in there as well... had a derby cover stolen last year at a rally.. ya... gay! but it was custom all CAD design... one of a kind... well 2 of a kind the guy that made it made me another one... so i am on the look out
ORIGINAL: cstolp
ORIGINAL: TxDyna
So are the screws just really cheap or did Hercules himself put them in?? I'll have to remember to take it as easy as possible on them when trying to get them out. Would it be better to have hex heads in there instead??
Dave
The problem IMO is that the depth of the torx head is too shallow and you can't get a very good bite on them. Yes I would say a good hex/allen head would be better. Take my advice and buy yourself one of those impact drivers. The screwscome out undamaged and if you chose to put them back in then using this will do a good job as well.
All the right tools may seem like a waste of money until you screw something up. I'm going to put that craftsman imapact thingy on my wish list for future mods.[8D][sm=biker2.gif]
How does that Craftsman impact driver work? Do you smack the end of it with a hammer?
Yep! Actually you don't need to hit it that hard. You put the bit into the screw apply inward pressure along with torque in the direction you wish to turn the screw and then hit it with a mallet. Repeat until its loose or torqued down which ever is your goal.
I never loctite the Derby cover. Torque to specs and I've never had a problem. They don't come from the factory loctited and no mention in User or Service Manual. Proper torque is the key. JMHO, has always worked for me. Have never needed an Impact driver either(except for some old project bikes, etc.). I service mine more frequently than factory recommendations.
I gotta agree with 07 StreetBob, no need for any locktite if you torque the bolts to spec. Never had one back out on any bike. Also- buy a good quality T 27 torx bit, make sure it's seated well in the bolts and tap the wrench to break the boltshold. Never had any problems with these bolts and have only had to use a impact driver once on a Harley to get a oil drain screw loose on a fork leg after 50 K miles
I changedmy derby cover and after fighting to get the last bolt out (I'd stripped the head after backing the bolt out about an 1/8th. I used a vice lock wrench to grab the bolt head and twisted it to remove it) I installed the new cover with a new gasket. After a couple of days I had a very small but persistent leak of tranny fluid from under the primary. Someone on this forum told me to put white grease on the gasket and reinstall it. Problem solved.
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