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Do you either know how to do it or have a service manual? If not, let the indy do it. How much could he charge? It may be worth it. It's not hard job but instructions are helpful.
Put the bike on a jack to support it. Secure the bike with tie-downs. When you remove the rear wheel, you will be removing weight which the bike is balancing on. Remove the lower shock bolts. As you jack the bike up higher and the swingarm lowers, you will get enough slack in the drivebelt to remove it from the pulley. Watch clearances to make sure things don't hit the pipes as you raise the bike. Depending on the exhaust you have, you may have to remove the exhaust (or mufflers) to get the rear axle out. Pay attention to the axle spacers whn you remove the wheel so you can make sure you put them back on the correct sides.
When you go to reinstall the wheel, you can put the axle back in from the opposite side so the exhaust won't be in the way in the future. Have some anti-seize on hand to put on the axle when you reinstall in.
Alignment and belt tension will not be issues if you do it this way because you did not have to loosen the axle adjusters when you removed the wheel.
I didn't need to adjust my alignment at all. Having the service manual will help though, it tells you step by step what to do.
Putting the tire back on was a lot easier than getting it off BTW...
Right on! ... I've heard it takes some "persuasion" to get the axle out.
I didn't think an alignment would be automatic. I guess I'll be able to
feel if it's outta whack.
If you are able to drop the wheel without taking tension off the belt or messing with the axle adjusters, it should go back on the same way it came off - or at least mine did anyway. Checking alignment is easy however. Just check the distance between the pinhole a few inches on each side of the swingarm in front of the axle to the center of the axle and adjust accordingly. The axle can need persuading - just use the right tools that won't damage it and "persuade" away. Be sure to cover it with anti-sieze before you put it back in and it will go back in like butter.
If its your first tire change it might be a bitch. Mine was because the moco didn't put enough anti-seize on the axle. had to beat the **** outta it to get it out. I ended up splitting a wheel spacer in half and damaged the threads on the end of the axle. Luckily the service manager at my dealer got me new parts under warranty, he even pressed new bearings in the wheels for me. Hope yours goes more smoothly! Just remember to coat the axle with plenty of anti-seize and it'll slide right in. My alignment was dead on when I put everything back together.[hr]
Put the bike on a jack to support it. Secure the bike with tie-downs. When you remove the rear wheel, you will be removing weight which the bike is balancing on. Remove the lower shock bolts. As you jack the bike up higher and the swingarm lowers, you will get enough slack in the drivebelt to remove it from the pulley. Watch clearances to make sure things don't hit the pipes as you raise the bike. Depending on the exhaust you have, you may have to remove the exhaust (or mufflers) to get the rear axle out. Pay attention to the axle spacers whn you remove the wheel so you can make sure you put them back on the correct sides.
When you go to reinstall the wheel, you can put the axle back in from the opposite side so the exhaust won't be in the way in the future. Have some anti-seize on hand to put on the axle when you reinstall in.
Alignment and belt tension will not be issues if you do it this way because you did not have to loosen the axle adjusters when you removed the wheel.
Makes sense that the belt tension and alignment will stay intact if I don't have to adjust the belt to remove the wheel. Thanks for the advice.
I've got V&H short shots, so I don't forsee clearance issues, but by if someone knows something I don't, let me know.
One morething tho ... realizing i'll have to strap the bike down to the jack due to the counter balance issue. How do I jack it up while the bike is strapped down?
I didn't need to adjust my alignment at all. Having the service manual will help though, it tells you step by step what to do.
Putting the tire back on was a lot easier than getting it off BTW...
Right on! ... I've heard it takes some "persuasion" to get the axle out.
I didn't think an alignment would be automatic. I guess I'll be able to
feel if it's outta whack.
If you are able to drop the wheel without taking tension off the belt or messing with the axle adjusters, it should go back on the same way it came off - or at least mine did anyway. Checking alignment is easy however. Just check the distance between the pinhole a few inches on each side of the swingarm in front of the axle to the center of the axle and adjust accordingly. The axle can need persuading - just use the right tools that won't damage it and "persuade" away. Be sure to cover it with anti-sieze before you put it back in and it will go back in like butter.
Thanks for the input.
I've heard horror stories of trying to get that axle out.
I'll be sure to get some anti-sieze before I start the job.
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