Engine build
...Thanks Patrick.
And if your gonna dump money into a build, get someone who has a Dyno. It's crazy that with all the money the dealers make that yours does not have one.
1st - Intake and pipes, get your bike sucking and blowing
2nd - Cam - this is the heart of the engine. Nothing will determine more how the engine will run than CAM choice
3rd - Big bore
4th - Heads
5th - Stroking
With each of the above levels, all prior levels have to be done, and match what you are trying to accomplish. Many people think that once you get to the 5th item, stroking, you might as well just but that new S&S or Jim's big-***-engine and replace what you have due to cost/benefit.
My build goal was having a rideable build and lots of pull for 2-up. This type of build generally looks for 10.5:1 compression or less so the bike doesn't get too bitchy on a tank of sub-par gas. I also build for a wide torque curve which is what will provide you that power from 2000 RPM up to 4000 or so where horsepower really takes over.
From what it sounds, you would be looking at a torque build. I'd suggest looking at a shorter duration cam with as high lift as possible for your heads. Getting heads, or head work done will open up your cam options. You should also accept a performance oriented 2-1 pipe for your exhaust as these generally yield more torque; Thunderheader, V&H ProPipe, Supertrapp, there are others.
Ask plenty of questions. Don't buy a packaged Screamin' Eagle kit. With that said, I did a almost 100% Screamin' Eagle build and am very happy. There are many good indy builds and options as well. This forum has been a wealth of help to getting me to the point I have the bike I've wanted to build for 15 years (since I sold my hot-rod Sporty).
Well... I could ramble on. Feel free to keep the conversation until you are satisfied with your build plan.
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Thank all of you for the info you have offered and for putting it in terms I can understand.....
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I personally and running an SE Stage I air cleaner though I have the high-volume filter that I bought through Zipper's Performance. I looked at several options, including the SE Heavy Breather, which I still may toss on the bike before my dyno. On a 103 build, and depending on your cam choice, you may need something that provides more air that the stock SE air cleaner. I noticed increased throttle response after tossing the Zipper filter on my build.
http://www.zippersperformance.com/ca...=572&prod=2050
Also, check this list on who you use to do the dyno. Just because a shop has a dyno doesn't mean they know how to use it. I was shocked about the variance in price and process between tuners and have spent all winter researching who I would let tune my bike. Depending on when you are planning on doing the build and the cost of tuning the bike, which is normally several hundred dollars, you may want to just buy a SERT (yeah, I and many tuners really like the SERT) an d just base map your tune when you stage one, base map the tune again for your break-in build, which is another important part, then do the final dyno tune once your break-in on your new build is complete.
It's always a pleasure helping someone catch the horsepower flu.


