When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I have a 98 super and just did a vertical alignment (adjusting the top motor mount to make the the rear rotor read the same degrees of vertical as the front.) (Its in the book under vehicle alignment) To get both rotors to read the same degrees I ve got to put a the top mount under a ton or tension. Is this normal? If I remove the bolt that holds the top mount to the mating bracket the motor moves to the left enough to off set the holes in the top mount and bracket by the thickness of the bolt I just removed, thats how much tension I have the motor under!! Is this right??
Thanks guys
on my bike, when i had the bike on a lift with the wheels off the ground with no tension, i could unbolt the mount and move the engine side to side with little resistance.
dont know if it helps you but thats my expeirience
thanks for the input. Sounds like your motor is in a relaxed position. With an angle finder(clinometer) to get the rear rotor to read the same vertical angle as the front I've relay gota make the top mount push the motor way over to one side. Why would this be???? Have you guys ever made this type of adjustment and had problems?
There's a motor alignment procedure in the manual that might help that basically puts your engine in a stress free position. You have to loosen the front and rear lower motor mounts (between the engine & mount, and also between the frame & mount). Run engine for about ten seconds, shut off then re-torque mounts. Also, are your mounts fairly new? You might want to check and make sure that there notcomingapart.
both front and rear are brand new and I shimmed the front mount also. I have followed all procedures in the book including loosen the bolts and run for 5 sec part. They also tell you to adjust your top link until your rear rotor is perfectly vertical so that the caster\camber of the rear wheel is in line with the front wheel AKA both rotors front and rear are with in 1 degree of being vertical in relationship to each other. My top link is ready to come apart (as in break) I have to put so much tension on it to get my rear rotor within 1 degree of the front rotor. Any thoughts
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.