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07 street bob stalling

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Old May 30, 2013 | 11:04 AM
  #11  
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I love threads like this!! Right to the point. I am experiencing the same thing as of yesterday. I went on a dusty ride over the weekend, and I made it a plan to clean the filter (which I did) and noticed the problem on the very next ride. I'll have to give this a shot as well, and post my success.... I didn't even think to check the IAC.
 
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Old May 30, 2013 | 12:57 PM
  #12  
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I started a thread a few days ago with the same issue. I plan on cleaning mine tonight and I'll report back with the results soon. I'm hoping my issue is as easily solved as these quick steps...
 
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Old Nov 5, 2017 | 07:58 PM
  #13  
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Hate bringing an old thread back to life, but hopefully this will help more people like it did for me yesterday.

Was stalling out on the last couple of rides when I would come to a stop (4 times on yesterdays ride, which got me searching this site), tried a number of other things, but after cleaning the IAC I was back in business. Saved me from having to bring my 2012 FXDB in to the shop! Thanks guys!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 03:05 PM
  #14  
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Default IAC Done?

Had idling issues start last riding season and thanks to this forum tried the carb cleaner routine and sure nuff got her running almost like new. Well it has come back with a vengeance and after a VERY thorough cleaning with carb cleaning while cycling the ignition as well, she idles OK for 10-20 seconds and then starts coughing/backfire big time till it stalls. So I think the next step is to replace the IAC but just wanted to do a sanity check with some of the old salts out there. Attached video of her getting sick, is this what a bad IAC will do? Runs fine at RPM but down at idle she acts like the video. Thanks for any and all input.

 
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 06:33 PM
  #15  
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Never had any of these problems with my 07 SB. Every 3 months I put 1.5 oz of Gumout Carb & FI Cleaner in a full tank of gas. Just got tired of the lack of low end torque. So I converted it to a CV 40 & stand alone ignition. Now it rolls!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 07:25 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Low_Wider
Had idling issues start last riding season and thanks to this forum tried the carb cleaner routine and sure nuff got her running almost like new. Well it has come back with a vengeance and after a VERY thorough cleaning with carb cleaning while cycling the ignition as well, she idles OK for 10-20 seconds and then starts coughing/backfire big time till it stalls. So I think the next step is to replace the IAC but just wanted to do a sanity check with some of the old salts out there. Attached video of her getting sick, is this what a bad IAC will do? Runs fine at RPM but down at idle she acts like the video. Thanks for any and all input.

https://youtu.be/wCpwT5hf5hk
I only have one experience with a Similar situation.... it was on a 1993 Carb'd Evo Wide Glide motor. It all of a sudden would not idle correctly, then die every time while trying to idle But, Ran well at Highway speed. It ended up being a "Capped off" Air Outlet/Inlet <or> a Vacuum Line (cant remember which one, it was back in 1996) on the Carb "had come off".
I would say Check for any Loose Vacuum Hoses or missing Vacuum plugs/caps Before you purchase that New IAC.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 03:42 PM
  #17  
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Sounded like my '07 Street Bob. I cleaned the IAC good and I haven't had any issues since, I used seafoam in the aerosol can and sprayed it up good both off and running.
 

Last edited by jricharc; Feb 19, 2018 at 03:43 PM.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 12:08 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by Uquackmeup
I just started experiencing the same thing on my 07 SB. I'd roll to a stop, pull in the clutch and the idle would dip so low that the bike would die. I searched the Internet and found a similar post on another site. Someone recommended cleaning the IAC unit, which solved the problem for me. At least it's been a couple of hundred miles since cleaning and&nbsp\\;smooth running. Pull your air cleaner, on the throttle body top left you'll see a hole. Without starting your bike, turn the run switch on and turn the ignition key without hitting the actual start button. You'll hear the fuel pump priming and if you look in the IAC hole you'll see the plunger moving in and out. Put a paper towel in the throttle body out side the butterfly to catch excess cleaner and spray in the hole. I used WD40. After spraying, I used a cotton swab to blot the hole and it was dirty. The apparent trick is to cycle the start procedure several times to get the plunger moving. I hope it works for you as it did for me.
&nbsp\\;
Ron
My bike was running fine but, I went ahead and did this procedure anyway.
I used brake cleaner to spray into the IAC.
While I was in the area I poured about 2 ounces of transmission fluid down the manifold throat into the cylinders, started the engine up, let it idle for a few seconds and then turned it off and let it sit for a few hours to let the transmission fluid do some cleaning/carbon deposit loosening on the inside of the motor.
Fired the engine back up a few hours later, Smoked heavily for a few minutes and took about 20 minutes of slow riding around the neighborhood to completely stop smoking. Carbon deposits should be fairly well cleaned out and help the engine run its Best.
 
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 11:22 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Low_Wider
Had idling issues start last riding season and thanks to this forum tried the carb cleaner routine and sure nuff got her running almost like new. Well it has come back with a vengeance and after a VERY thorough cleaning with carb cleaning while cycling the ignition as well, she idles OK for 10-20 seconds and then starts coughing/backfire big time till it stalls. So I think the next step is to replace the IAC but just wanted to do a sanity check with some of the old salts out there. Attached video of her getting sick, is this what a bad IAC will do? Runs fine at RPM but down at idle she acts like the video. Thanks for any and all input.

https://youtu.be/wCpwT5hf5hk
FINAL SOLUTION: Since my first post above I replaced the IAC to little avail and then I replaced the fuel filter which helped a lot but it would still mainly cough/stumble during warm up and would occasionally stumble on shifts as I rolled on the throttle. She would always start right off but then die, after a second start she would stay running. I had also started getting a lot more decel pop but I assumed that was due to an exhaust leak as I hadn't made any changes to the engine.
I had read on this forum that a possible reason was the fuel pump but that did not make sense to me as the issue was really at idle when you would think fuel demand is low. When I would get on it she would run fine at high rpm so the issue being the fuel pump was way down my list of things it could be. Well to make a long story short I just had it in the dealer and had them do a fuel pressure check and sure enough I was getting low fuel pressure. So put in a new fuel pump today and WOW! Fired up on the first crank and stayed running, no cough/stumble during warm up and she ran a whole lot better. The icing on the cake is that the decel pop was back to its normal rumble. Not sure how the fuel pump affects the decel pop but not complaining.

Hope this helps others with the same issue.

Ride Safe!
 
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Old Oct 22, 2020 | 07:15 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Low_Wider
Not sure how the fuel pump affects the decel pop but not complaining.
Decel popping comes from lean mixture and low fuel pressure causes lean mixture...
 
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