When doing forks what kind of prep work needs to be done to have the proper results? Sorry for so many questions!

 

I would wipe down with a good Wax and Grease Remover and then scuff w/180 grit paper for tooth, the W&G remover again-good to go-

 

sand with 400 till they are baby smooth... you need to get thought he clear on there... then wipe them down wiht some PREP or denatured alchole, and paint... FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE CAN!!!! you only have 1/2 hour to lay it down or you will be screwed and have to start all over... also being that it is winter the temp plays a big part in how this paint cures and lays

 

OOOOOOOOOOOH YA!!! soak the can in hot water for a good 15 min before use... this will help the paint come out and flow nicely, as well as prevent the nozel from clogging up... COVER EVERYTHING... for real... EVERYTHING this stuff gets everywhere when you spray the overspray is nuts!!

prepped:


unwrapped:


DONE:

 

I was going to powder coat mine but i think ill just paint them that way I do not have to take them apart. Great info here so far.

 

just do not use anything less than 400 when you sand... it leaves much too course of lines... this paint sprays thick but does not flow out that thick and will not cover imperfections created while sanding

 

I did not post a can. Fuqua did. my enamel epoxy I used was for outdoor use. It did say no need to prime and sand with 220 then apply. The primer that you mentioned, is it a spray can? I do not feel you are confrontational at all. Am interested to learn more.

 

The can says that they don't recomend using any primer...???.

What's the deal with that???


Fuqua, you did your lowers but haven't updated your sig? I updated my sig, but haven't done my lowers yet!!! Mine are just photoshoped! I want to make sure I like them before I do it.

 

i have always been told never use a primer on epoxy paint... when i have i hated the results and got orange peel and fish eyes... so i never use primer anylonger... even when i shoot it on plastics

 

It really all comes down to how well you want it to last, Chemical Resistance, durability, depth, shine and so on-why do you think they use two-part Paint on a Car? If it is so easy, why don't they just use the same contents that are in that spray Can? Every good Epxoy is two part-it has the base and an activator to harden-

Powdercoating your bike is obviously also very durable, but sometimes it's hard ot not have some orange peel-I love the stuff, you can clear coat it, and it's very Chemical resistant. Stone chips can be a bit tough to repair however-

As for two part Epxoy in a spray can, yes, they have in the last year or so made it available, and it has a little compartment in it to relaese the activator, but it's kind of expensive, but any Paint worht it's salt has a Primer-it gives stabilization to the Paint as well as a good base-

Here is a two-part Epoxy in a spray can-
http://www.rubber-seal.com/prodview.asp?prodID=2068

They are even offering a two-part paint system in a can-look here:http://www.alsapaint.com/products/killercans.html

I think they are using the term "Epoxy" very loosely, and if it were my Bike I would only use Powdercoating or a two-part Paint system (urethane preferably)-it will have good UV protection and last-just my .02, and you can now return to your regularly scheduled program