H.D. 10 Row Oil Cooler
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,192
Likes: 168
From: Knoxville, Tn
Front Motor Mount
I just shimmed the front on my bike 2 days ago. The vibrations were so bad I was convinced the mount was bad. I ordered a new mount and proceeded to change it out. What I found was that the mount was a 1/2" away from where it was supposed to bolt to the frame. I searched until I found shims to fit the mount instead of using washers. I'm sure the washers will work well but I have used shims in my profession so I wanted to shim this mount up. I found the shims at Grainger Supply Co. There is one in town here so I didn't have to order them. If you don't have one near it's www.grainger.com These are stainless steel and are .125" each so it took 4 to do the job. I also had to buy longer bolts to get the mount attached again. Those were polished stainless from Ace Hardware. The two bolts with polished flat and polished lock washers were expensive @$17.00 and the shims were about $7.50 at Grainger.
Tourer
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 461
Likes: 0
From: Glendale, AZ
About the mount, I think whoever said that when adjusting the mounts that the bike should be upright and with rider weight on it because it is attached to the rear suspension hit right on it. I took my WG to the dealer because of excess vibration after the 1000mi service, they over tightened the mounts I believe. Anyway I got the normal runaround about "that's the way it is suppose to be", I stood my ground and they called their HD service rep. He faxed them "new" instructions for adjusting the mounts. Basically it was to strap the bike down to the lift, maybe this was to simulate the riders weight, then loosen the mounts and run the motor for a few minutes this allowed the motor to "center" itself. Then turn it off and torque the mount bolts. This worked great the bike is smoother than ever and smoother than others I've ridden. Also, there were no spacers used.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
When you did this, did you just have the bike leaning on the jiffy or upright on a lift with most of the weight on the wheels or off the wheels?
Thanks, CB
Thread Starter
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 3,124
Likes: 255
From: From Long Island, now in So. Cal
Later on I did the engine alignment as per the factory service manual. With the bike upright with my wife sitting on it to hold the bike upright (not quite near my weight). I loosened all the mounting bolts and ran the engine for about a minute, then used loctite threadlocker and torqued all the bolts.
When I installed the oil cooler I rechecked the gap and used the same shims as before.
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Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
Kind of, I had the bike on the side stand when I removed my vapor canister (https://www.hdforums.com/forum/337637-post6.html), thats when I noticed the preload on the mount (the mount pulled away from the frames cross brace). With the the two bolts loose to the frames cross brace, I then put a jack under the engine and jacked up the engine until the two bolts could turn freely by hand, then I measured the gap and shimmed.
Later on I did the engine alignment as per the factory service manual. With the bike upright with my wife sitting on it to hold the bike upright (not quite near my weight). I loosened all the mounting bolts and ran the engine for about a minute, then used loctite threadlocker and torqued all the bolts.
When I installed the oil cooler I rechecked the gap and used the same shims as before.
Later on I did the engine alignment as per the factory service manual. With the bike upright with my wife sitting on it to hold the bike upright (not quite near my weight). I loosened all the mounting bolts and ran the engine for about a minute, then used loctite threadlocker and torqued all the bolts.
When I installed the oil cooler I rechecked the gap and used the same shims as before.
