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HD Service SUCKS. Question on front shocks

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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:36 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by rounder
I think you could start by taking off the top cap and measuring the amount of fluid in the shocks. I think there is also a distance from fluid to top of shock that can be measured to determine this without full disassembly. Measure the oil distance and add as needed.
I would very much like to know how you can do that!

rounder re: "is also a distance from fluid to top of shock that can be measured to determine this without full disassembly."

The only way I know how to do it is as per manual where you remove the spring and pre-load adjuster and keep the fork straight/perpendicular than compress the slider like Adrianvall did HERE I surely would like to know how to shorten my workload.


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I believe that Rocket350 asked HD Service SUCKS. Question on front shocks on his 07 FXDL and not much more than that so in answer to his question: Yes, you an do it. You did not ask how to improve your suspension outside of stock so I will limit my post to that.

Q: "Anyone taken their's apart and have any advice for inspection and disassembly?"
A: Yes, I have done a few off and on. All front hydraulic shocks since 1948 are basically the same. Not much changes. You may go to my site and go to my DIY section, follow the pictures and instructions and do it yourself to rebuild which will cost $60 ~ $70. You must adjust the P/N's to include the following:
Q HD P/N Description
2 46508-01 O-RING All Models
2 46080-01 BUSHING, slider
2 46512-01 SEAL DUST
2 46514-01 SEAL OIL
2 46515-01 SPACER SEAL
2 46516-01 BUSHING GUIDE
2 46615-06 PACKING SEAL (brass Washers on bolts)
4 Bottles of Fork Oil (approx. 25 oz each side) or measure 110 mm

I use one of these to adjust the oil fill level

 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 05:40 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by madden23
I just went through a similiar process with mine, front felt bouncy(poor rebounding), I installed a works performance triple rate spring kit, much better. still not there. Took it apart again, and put in Ricor IAS valves, and put in heavier wt fork oil(15 W). Easily doable by anyone with a jack, don't forget to strap bike down when it's on the jack, the weight can shift when you pull wheel and brake caliper off. Fluid level is measured from the top of a fully compressed fork, 100MM from top(about 26 oz) Better to measure in case you don't pump all of the old fork oil out.
According to Mud, the measurement was 110 mm on the Dyna SB. I do not have a manual but MUD posted it for me to read it. Please correct mine or your information as I could be wrong.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 06:24 PM
  #13  
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Your right, I remembered it was 4.33 " or 100MM but 4.33" is 110MM.Thanks for catching that Howard. I usually remember things better than that, old age creeping in.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 06:30 PM
  #14  
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Right on! Thanks for all the info. I will do it myself since I have never had a good experience from HD. After hitting a deer, they replaced my tubes, and lower sliders with chrome. Since then, it has been VERY spongy. I tap the front brake, and the whole front end dives. I have done forks on Dirt Bikes and 3 wheelers (yeah, I'm 30 yrs old), but this is my first Harley. I have more confidence in myself than trained techs. When I got my bike back, the idiots didn't even tighten the risers - no BS - 5" of play in my handlebars back and forth. 6 turns on the 3/4 bolt before it even started to tighten! Again, great info gents. - and yes, I kept "rubber side down" when I decided to get my 1st deer.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:24 PM
  #15  
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Race Tech makes a similar unit for $169... sorry to plug it... looking at the racetech unit

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/CADDIEMLAHD.HTML

save over a hundred bucks.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:42 PM
  #16  
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RaceTech doesn't have my bike listed, 06 WG?!?!?!
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 07:58 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by jarhead45
Race Tech makes a similar unit for $169... sorry to plug it... looking at the racetech unit

http://www.racetech.com/HTML_FILES/CADDIEMLAHD.HTML

save over a hundred bucks.
Don't forget they recommend replacing the springs at $109 at the same time and recommend their oil at $29/quart, 2 required. All in all close to the same price.

That said the two products could not be farther apart. The emulator uses a small orifice for low speed compression and a coil spring blow off for high speed compression. We use deflected discs for low speed and an inertia valve for high speed. Our system is the only system that is smart enough to tell if the wheel is moving or if the chassis is moving and apply the appropriate dampening response.

I have the up most respect for Race Tech and it's products. I have used their gold valves in almost every dirt bike I have owned.

As far as performance on a damper rod application, I welcome a back to back test any time.

Brian
 
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Old Mar 3, 2009 | 08:55 PM
  #18  
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I know from my seat of the pants experience the Ricor product works as described, the difference was noticeable immediately, a great compliment to the YSS shocks in the back of my bike. Suspension is a package deal, no sense putting great shocks on the back, without addressing the front too. All I can say is that my bike is WAY more fun to ride now, it does not even feel like the same bike. I think it's kind of a shame we have to spend all this money on our Harley's to make them handle properly, but they are a passion and I wouldn't ride anything else.
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 06:52 AM
  #19  
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Default Clarification Pleae

Originally Posted by Ricor Shocks
Don't forget they recommend replacing the springs at $109 at the same time and recommend their oil at $29/quart, 2 required. All in all close to the same price.

That said the two products could not be farther apart. The emulator uses a small orifice for low speed compression and a coil spring blow off for high speed compression. We use deflected discs for low speed and an inertia valve for high speed. Our system is the only system that is smart enough to tell if the wheel is moving or if the chassis is moving and apply the appropriate dampening response.

I have the up most respect for Race Tech and it's products. I have used their gold valves in almost every dirt bike I have owned.

As far as performance on a damper rod application, I welcome a back to back test any time.

Brian
Brian, does a person who has a stock front end and wishes to change it to real suspension, do you change out the stock springs to a value spring rate for your weight, load, riding style 1 or 2 up 70% of the time et Al. or do you leave the springs alone?
 
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Old Mar 4, 2009 | 07:13 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by FastHarley
I would very much like to know how you can do that!

rounder re: "is also a distance from fluid to top of shock that can be measured to determine this without full disassembly."

The only way I know how to do it is as per manual where you remove the spring and pre-load adjuster and keep the fork straight/perpendicular than compress the slider like Adrianvall did HERE I surely would like to know how to shorten my workload.


Thanks for clearing that up. Was not 100% on the procedure, figured someone would explain it better.
 
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