hello everone i have 08 dyna lowryder and i am adding cycle shak pipes with a se stage 1 kit and i have the efi race fueler and need to know if the basic setup /were to set the tuning pots at .sorry new @ this anny help would be great thanks reggin.

 

The install instructions should give you a starting point for the pots. If they don't I'll go look at my bike and tell you where I have mine.(I have the same thing) But, I have a bigger A/C than the SE setup, I have Zippers, and my Rineharts are a little less restrictive than the cycle shacks, but at least it will give you a starting point.

 

Got this from another member.


Just thought I'd post my initial experience with the Harley Race Fueler for the 2005 Models. This may work on '06, '07 models but I haven't seen one to comment.

(Apologies for all the dots and underscores but it was the only way to keep the formatting when it posted)

It's a great little box and did exactly what I wanted. I have S/Eagle II Mufflers and Air Cleaner on an '05 Deuce.
The details below describe how I set my fueler up and they may be useful to others. This for TC88 motors the VRod motors run higher rpm's so Dial 4 & 5 would be set differently.

32136-05A......Race Fueler
29440-99C......SE air cleaner
2001..............S/Eagle II Slash Cut Mufflers

The dials (potentiometers) in the Fueler are all orientated the same way, which I believe is different from the earlier Fuelers.

Fitting is very straightforward but it is a bit awkward getting the connectors off and on the injectors under the tank. A well trained 5 year old is very handy for this as they can get their hands in the small space under the tank. Also the wire colors in the instructions were not quite the same as the wire colors on the bike but it was pretty obvious where they went. (White instead of Grey if I remember correctly). I taped the unit to the tank while I was setting it up, it made life much easier. Once finished I slipped it in next to the ECU under the seat, not next the battery as in the instructions (acid and electronics don't get on)

Setting up
------------

I used a frequency counter on my multimeter to check the rpm settings, see the table lower down for the values.


________| 1 |____| 2 |____| 3 |____

___________R___Y___G_________ Fueler Layout

________| 4 |____| 5 |____| 6 |____


LED's
------
R = Red LED Low rpm range
Y = Yellow LED Mid rpm range
G = Green LED High rpm range

What the dial does (earlier models are different)
---------------------
1 Low rpm range fuel adjuster ______ -10% to +40% fuel correction
2 Mid rpm range fuel adjuster ______ -10% to +40% fuel correction
3 High rpm range fuel adjuster _____ -10% to +40% fuel correction
4 Low to Mid rpm cutover range _____ 900 to 3500 rpm
5 Mid to High rpm cutover range ____ 4500 to 7100 rpm
6 Accelerator fuel enrichment _______ 0 to 100%

The dials are marked 0 to 10
0 = Fully Anti-Clockwise position on all dials
10 = Fully Clockwise position on all dials

Note these figures represent the position of the dial only, not the value of fuel or rpm. For example Position 2 on Dials 1, 2 & 3 roughly equates to no fuel correction. See the table below for the values.

Initial Settings
-----------------

These are the positions I started at.

Dial __ Position_
Dial 1 ___ 2
Dial 2 ___ 2
Dial 3 ___ 2
Dial 4 ___ 3.5 - (Low to Mid rpm needs to be set at around 1800 rpm which is approx 3.5 on the dial)
Dial 5 ___ 0 - (Mid to High rpm needs to be set to 4500 rpm which is 0 on the dial)
Dial 6 ___ 0

Now go for a 10 minute ride to warm the bike up. don't worry if it pops and crackles a bit we just need the bike warm. When you get back take the lid off the fueler as we need to make some adjustments.

Dial 1
------
Start the engine up and slowly increase the rpm until the red led goes out (about 1800rpm) and the yellow led comes on then bring it down a bit until the led's swap back over and we have the red one lit again. You need to hold this rpm really steady (the lock on the handle bar throttle is useful for this). Now very slowly increase dial 1 (clockwise), the engine should start to speed up (if the yellow led comes on then set the throttle back a little so we are back on red). You will get to a point where the rpm no longer rises and then you can turn the dial back down to a point where the rpm just starts to reduce.

Dial 2
------
Now we do the same again but at about 4000 rpm. So this time we raise the rpm until the green (third) led comes on and then throttle back very slowly until it goes out and the yellow led comes back on. Then we slowly increase dial 2 until the engine no longer increases in speed and then dial it back slightly.

In both the above exercises we are looking for the point where the engine runs fastest and smoothest with the dials set as low as possible. you may need to stop and let the bike cool during these adjustments. If the engine gets too hot then the EFI will run slightly richer to compensate and this will mess with your results.

Dial 3
-------
This is the hardest to set up manually but unless you are screaming the bike above 4500 rpm a lot you won't need to worry. The only way to set this is to get the bike pulling hard above 4500 and the increase the dial a bit at a time until it runs about right. I set dial 3 to position 4 which is probably too rich but on the safe side. I don't tend to go above 4500 rpm all that much anyway.

Dial 4 & 5
-----------
Need no further adjusting.

Dial 6
------
This is set by snapping the throttle open from idle. If the engine stutters before picking up then you need to increase the setting on the dial. Eventually you find a point where the engine responds straight away and there is no stutter. Again you need to aim to keep the setting as low as you can without the stuttering.

This table shows approximate dial settings
------------------------------------------------

Position____Fuel% (1,2,3)____rpm(4)____rpm(5)

0 ................ -10 ................. 900 ......4500 (fully anti-clockwise)
1 ................ -5 ................ 1160 ....... 4760
2 ................. 0 ................ 1420 ....... 5020
3 ................. 5 ................ 1680 ....... 5280
4 ................ 10 ............... 1940 ....... 5540
5 ................ 15 ............... 2200 ....... 5800 (12 o'clock, half way)
6 ................ 20 ............... 2460 ....... 6060
7 ................ 25 ............... 2720 ....... 6320
8 ................ 30 ............... 2980 ....... 6580
9 ................ 35 ............... 3240 ....... 6840
10 .............. 40 ................3500 ....... 7100 (fully clockwise)

-----------------------------------------------------
Earlier models have a different rpm range:
Low to Mid Adjuster Range 600 to 2000 RPM
Mid to High Adjuster Range 3000 to 7000 RPM
-----------------------------------------------------
At my next service I will get the bike on the dyno and it will be interesting to see how close I got but in the mean time this is what my settings are.

Dial___Position____Value

Dial 1 .... 3 ....... +5% fuel (modified to 3.5 (7.5%) after test ride due to popping exhaust)
Dial 2 .... 3 ....... +5% fuel (modified to 4 (10%) after test ride due to popping exhaust)
Dial 3 .... 4 ....... +10% fuel
Dial 4 .... 3.5 ..... 1800 rpm
Dial 5 .... 0 ........ 4500 rpm
Dial 6 .... 6 ........ 60% (of whatever extra fuel it throws in)