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Not having the bike in front of me, or the new pipes, I'm not sure what is meant by the rivets. I'm assuming that there is a nut/bolt holding them in, and the nut/bolt needs to be torqued to proper spec. Is there a rivet somewhere else?
The rivets will be in the box with the slip-ons with the instructions. You can drill the hole in your header pipe and slip-on to put your rivets in to hold the slipons on more securely.
NDFan As for the torque wrench, if you don't use it you will have to re-tighten the clamps again later after the pipes move or you will tighten up the clamp too much and break the clamp. I did not use the torque wrench the first time and the slipons did move slightly after time. I used the torque wrench the second time (as specified in the instructions) and could not believe how much more I had to tighten them up. I really suggest borrowing a torque wrench if you don't have one to do the job right.
Theres already a hole on the slip-ons where the rivets go, so drilling will just on the exhaust end.
As far as the torque wrench, I would BUY one if you plan to do most of the work on your bike yourself. It's really cheap like the Sears one. Mine cost me 22 bucks.
The rivets will be in the box with the slip-ons with the instructions. You can drill the hole in your header pipe and slip-on to put your rivets in to hold the slipons on more securely.
NDFan As for the torque wrench, if you don't use it you will have to re-tighten the clamps again later after the pipes move or you will tighten up the clamp too much and break the clamp. I did not use the torque wrench the first time and the slipons did move slightly after time. I used the torque wrench the second time (as specified in the instructions) and could not believe how much more I had to tighten them up. I really suggest borrowing a torque wrench if you don't have one to do the job right.
LeavenworthJeff
Thanks! Looks like a Torque wrench is needed. I have the slipons already installed. Do you think if I loosen the clamp, make sure the mufflers haven't slipped, and then use the torque wrench i'll be ok with the same clamps?
ND Fan- you should be ok. Loosen up the clamp, then bring it up to torque spec. The clamps are only $ 8.50 or so if one should break. Edit added; HD says you should use new clamps though. I and thousand others haven't, but that does not mean its right.[8D]
ND Fan- you should be ok. Loosen up the clamp, then bring it up to torque spec. The clamps are only $ 8.50 or so if one should break. Edit added; HD says you should use new clamps though. I and thousand others haven't, but that does not mean its right.[8D]
LeavenworthJeff
I thought new clamps came with the slip-ons. Guess it's just the rivet.
What's the absolute worst thing that can happen is clamp breaks while driving? Given that it's attached to a brace, it's not going to hit the ground, is it?
I'm sure everybody has had their torque wrench recalibrated after they dropped it or banged it around....LOL... Kidding aside ( Beam type are ok ) for the few extra bucks get a digital or a dial in one. While your at it get one for foot pounds and one for inch pounds... If anyone needs info on torque wrenches this site is pretty good..
If one only breaks then the mufflers should stay on, for how long is the question!
I would change the clamps if you've re-torqued them a few times. For example, my clamps finally broke after re-torqued 2 times, that would be a total of 3 times, including at the factory.
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