Polishing? My fingers hate me
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,289
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From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
Polishing? My fingers hate me
JRK5892--Joe, this is all your fault...
Finished polishing the rear wheel, along with the brake rotor and drive pulley. I can now safely say this was a lot easier than polishing the front wheel.
Now all I have to do is muster the energy to put it all back together again...
Finished polishing the rear wheel, along with the brake rotor and drive pulley. I can now safely say this was a lot easier than polishing the front wheel.
Now all I have to do is muster the energy to put it all back together again...
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,289
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From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
Madghost, I dont use a powerball. I have 2 soft cloth buffing wheels sistered together and use a drill motor. I dont even use any exotic polishing compounds, even though I have them. I use good old Mothers metal polish, and the $hit works great. Still have a lot of cleanup afterwards, but you got to do that anyway.
Andrew, if you saw how swollen my fingers were after all the grinding and sanding, you'd know why I aint doing your ladys sporty. H&ll, I wont even do my own ol ladys!
Andrew, if you saw how swollen my fingers were after all the grinding and sanding, you'd know why I aint doing your ladys sporty. H&ll, I wont even do my own ol ladys!
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
I have a new question for the rank and file here.
I know theres been a lot of talk about pulley bolts walking out and snapping off, and I think I night have run across a discrepancy...
The book calls for 60 ft/lbs torque on the bolts, but in the chrome bolt package, it has something else to say. It says first torque to 23 lbs, then torque them to 60° past their 23 lb position.
I'm a little hesitant about crankin them as much as the instructions call for. Best I can figure, that should work out to 100 lbs or more. Even though its a grade 8 bolt, crankin a 3/8ths bolt that far is taking it a little too close to its shear point.
I'm wondering if this isnt the reason theres so many failures with the pulley bolts installed by the dealer.
I dont have the answer, and I'm not sure which way I'm going to go. Just thought I'd throw this out there as food for thought
I know theres been a lot of talk about pulley bolts walking out and snapping off, and I think I night have run across a discrepancy...
The book calls for 60 ft/lbs torque on the bolts, but in the chrome bolt package, it has something else to say. It says first torque to 23 lbs, then torque them to 60° past their 23 lb position.
I'm a little hesitant about crankin them as much as the instructions call for. Best I can figure, that should work out to 100 lbs or more. Even though its a grade 8 bolt, crankin a 3/8ths bolt that far is taking it a little too close to its shear point.
I'm wondering if this isnt the reason theres so many failures with the pulley bolts installed by the dealer.
I dont have the answer, and I'm not sure which way I'm going to go. Just thought I'd throw this out there as food for thought
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From: Out on Deranged
Madghost, I dont use a powerball. I have 2 soft cloth buffing wheels sistered together and use a drill motor. I dont even use any exotic polishing compounds, even though I have them. I use good old Mothers metal polish, and the $hit works great. Still have a lot of cleanup afterwards, but you got to do that anyway.
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Thread Starter
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,289
Likes: 22
From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
Now I have something not too many others have.
Wheels the way they should have been from the factory.
Thread Starter
|
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,289
Likes: 22
From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
I have a new question for the rank and file here.
I know theres been a lot of talk about pulley bolts walking out and snapping off, and I think I night have run across a discrepancy...
The book calls for 60 ft/lbs torque on the bolts, but in the chrome bolt package, it has something else to say. It says first torque to 23 lbs, then torque them to 60° past their 23 lb position.
I'm a little hesitant about crankin them as much as the instructions call for. Best I can figure, that should work out to 100 lbs or more. Even though its a grade 8 bolt, crankin a 3/8ths bolt that far is taking it a little too close to its shear point.
I'm wondering if this isnt the reason theres so many failures with the pulley bolts installed by the dealer.
I dont have the answer, and I'm not sure which way I'm going to go. Just thought I'd throw this out there as food for thought
I know theres been a lot of talk about pulley bolts walking out and snapping off, and I think I night have run across a discrepancy...
The book calls for 60 ft/lbs torque on the bolts, but in the chrome bolt package, it has something else to say. It says first torque to 23 lbs, then torque them to 60° past their 23 lb position.
I'm a little hesitant about crankin them as much as the instructions call for. Best I can figure, that should work out to 100 lbs or more. Even though its a grade 8 bolt, crankin a 3/8ths bolt that far is taking it a little too close to its shear point.
I'm wondering if this isnt the reason theres so many failures with the pulley bolts installed by the dealer.
I dont have the answer, and I'm not sure which way I'm going to go. Just thought I'd throw this out there as food for thought
I torques the bolts to 23, just like the instructions said. Marked the position of the head, and torqued to 60 lbs like the book says. Not even half the 60° the instructions called for. Ran the bolts to 75 and hit the 30° mark. Looks like it'll take 150 lbs of torque (or more) to hit that 60° mark.
I suspect if the bolts were NSF, the 60° might be realistic. SAE aint gonna cut it.