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get rid of cam chain tensioners?

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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:20 AM
  #11  
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If you have a sloppy crank, best not to do gear driven cams, until you get the crank welded and trued. Stick with the chain driven.
Unless you're building a serious dyno shootout bike with mass quantities of horsepower, the chain driven cams should be fine for you. I just don't see rationalizing the additional cost of a gear drive setup for just everyday driving.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:28 AM
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If you are swapping cams anyway and have to replace tensioners, the price difference in going to gears is less than 200 bucks.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by AdrianVall
Didn't the 06 models come with this newer setup too, even though its still the 88"er?
Yes the 06 dyna (only) TC 88 hase the new set up. I had my cover off at 22K to check it out and the tensioners still looked brand new, couldnt even see were the chain was rubbing the pads. Much better than the old set up for sure.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxflhrci
If you are swapping cams anyway and have to replace tensioners, the price difference in going to gears is less than 200 bucks.
Not if you factor in splitting the cases to true/weld the crank.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 09:22 AM
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If my crank were already sloppy enough that it might need to be done, I'd be concerned with that as much as wearing tensioners.

Sloppy cranks is one of the reasons, I likely will never own a '03-up bike.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 09:43 AM
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Boy I just can't wait till the liquid cooled engines come and then listen to the "new" owners complain about the antiquated air cooled 96" engine with the hyd. cam chain tensioners. The funny thing about H-D is the evolution of it's engines, did they do some odd ball things, yes. Did they want to put the gear drive in the TC? Yes. The EPA Noise police squashed that idea. Be thankful somebody decided to make the conversion available. Sorry for the rant, a lot of new people don't understand the progression of these engines.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 11:22 AM
  #17  
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I'd stay away from any shop that would recommend going to gear drive on bikes with the new design especially without welding the crank.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by xxxflhrci
If my crank were already sloppy enough that it might need to be done, I'd be concerned with that as much as wearing tensioners.

Sloppy cranks is one of the reasons, I likely will never own a '03-up bike.
I thought it was only the 07' up cranks that are crap?
CB
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 02:25 PM
  #19  
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You don't need gear drives - an 07 is pretty good in that area but weaker in the crank due to not using Timken bearings (a retro conversion is possible if you want to chase big HP). I've got gear drives in my 99 FXDX and they're very quiet and give me peace of mind and I've got Timkens on the crank so I'm happy.

For cams an Andrews 21 or 26 sounds good for your needs, an SE 203 could work too. You basically need to look at some cam specs and get something without too much duration - maybe less than 235 degrees on the intake and with a fairly early close - say 36 degrees or less.
 
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Old Jun 6, 2009 | 02:52 PM
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Originally Posted by fxdxrider
You don't need gear drives - an 07 is pretty good in that area but weaker in the crank due to not using Timken bearings (a retro conversion is possible if you want to chase big HP). I've got gear drives in my 99 FXDX and they're very quiet and give me peace of mind and I've got Timkens on the crank so I'm happy.

For cams an Andrews 21 or 26 sounds good for your needs, an SE 203 could work too. You basically need to look at some cam specs and get something without too much duration - maybe less than 235 degrees on the intake and with a fairly early close - say 36 degrees or less.
It is my understanding that the 07' up cranks are 2 piece and pressed fit together, somehow fitted together and are not machined on center or between centers, one reason they run out so much and gear driven cams are not advised unless they are trued and welded. Any good write ups on this?
CB
 
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