problem with clutch
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6
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problem with clutch
Hello Im having some problems with my clutch, I just got a now handlebar kit installed and now when I pull my clutch lever with the bike in a gear the bike does not go to a neutral position, also when the bike is on and i have the clutch pulled in and in gear it wants to take off. what can be the problem???? any help would be great
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 971
Likes: 2
From: Mid USA
Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Yea somthing got messed up some where, after adjusting the cable the only results i get is one of two things, One when the bike is in gear the bike moves like its in netural with out the clutch lever in. Two the bike with the clutch lever pulled in and in gear does not move like its in netural. I just dont know was fine and then i installed the handlebar kit now this
Road Warrior
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,393
Likes: 8
From: Ohio
You have to get into the primary and adjust the clutchpack. It is easy, as long as you can either: 1. set the bike upright so fluid does not leak out when you remove the derby cover OR 2. catch the fluid and replace it with new while your girl holds the bike upright. The write up is pretty good:
"Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch."
I use a spark plug gap tool for the freeplay adjustment. .0625" is 1/16" and .0125 is 1/8", so .0833.... is right in the middle at 1/12". The gapper I have has a mark at .080, so I go with that.
"Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out.
Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.
Remove the derby cover and set aside.
Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.
Turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.
Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.
Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.
Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.
Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.
Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.
Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.
A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch."
I use a spark plug gap tool for the freeplay adjustment. .0625" is 1/16" and .0125 is 1/8", so .0833.... is right in the middle at 1/12". The gapper I have has a mark at .080, so I go with that.
Last edited by BluBob; Jun 25, 2009 at 11:33 PM.
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Thread Starter
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2nd Gear
Joined: Jun 2009
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Clutch Adjustment
Ok i replaced my handle bar kit now the clutch does not work, I have followed these steps along with the video but still nothing seems to be working.
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
just to make sure on step one I need to take out all slack in the clutch lever so that its fully lose?
also what gear should the bike be in?
Im running out of options here did not think that replacing that handle bar kit would lead to this mess lol
What should i do or try????????????
http://www.hdtalking.com/transmissio...nt_method.html
just to make sure on step one I need to take out all slack in the clutch lever so that its fully lose?
also what gear should the bike be in?
Im running out of options here did not think that replacing that handle bar kit would lead to this mess lol
What should i do or try????????????
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,440
Likes: 148
From: Northwest
What, did you not like the answers you were getting your original thread on this?
Before wrenching on your own bike, get the service manual. It will save you a whole bunch of time and money.
Please describe "handlebar kit"...? Is that "new handlebars"? New chrome or black clutch/mastercylinder and controls? .... what?
Put the bike in neutral (little green light on your console).
You do know that after you screw the clutch cable adjustment together (to put maximum slop in the cable) you have to expand it back out again.... right?
You want to expand it back out, so there is about 1/16 to 1/8 gap between the base of the clutch lever and the clutch lever mount.
Before wrenching on your own bike, get the service manual. It will save you a whole bunch of time and money.
Please describe "handlebar kit"...? Is that "new handlebars"? New chrome or black clutch/mastercylinder and controls? .... what?
Put the bike in neutral (little green light on your console).
You do know that after you screw the clutch cable adjustment together (to put maximum slop in the cable) you have to expand it back out again.... right?
You want to expand it back out, so there is about 1/16 to 1/8 gap between the base of the clutch lever and the clutch lever mount.
