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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I want to add the lowering blocks to my Low Rider. I know the Low Rider is already 3/4" lower than other stock Dynas. My question is, has anybody lowered their Low Rider with 1" blocks without issues? I think I read somewhere that somebody had to remove their belt guard, which I don't want to do. Advice? Suggestions? Will this ride well without bottoming out anywhere on the bike?
your belt guard will probably hit. The reason... your lowering the bike and keeping the travel the same. An 11.5" aftermarket shock will be better for you. The travel will be 1/2" less and you should have no clearance issues with the belt guard. You will get almost an inch lower. Best bet would be works performance or Ohlins to not only lower the bike, but, improve ride quality as well. Progressive lowering shocks ride very firm.
Get a pair off of Ebay & try it out for your self. If it doesn't work... sell em.
Well, the reason why I'm asking is because I don't want to lose money on a product if it's not going to work for me, or worse, damaging parts on my ride and have to spend even more money.
I need to do something this winter so I can reach the ground better than top-toed, but I occasionally ride 2-up with my wife (the two of use totaling just over 300 lbs.) I've done searches but I keep getting conflicting threads about blocks being better & cheaper or lower shocks being the better way but more expensive.
I need a solution that will lower my bike, still be able to support just over 300 lbs, and will not bottom out. So, with all your experiences, what do you all think would work out the best for my situation. (Funds are tight right now too, so I am looking for a cheaper way out.)
I have the lowering blocks on my bike as well as the front drop in kit. They work fine. I have used them on the Stock Showa's, as well as two other pairs of shocks in different lengths. They are a cheap alternative to a good set of short shocks. I DO NOT like short Progressive shocks, but thats just this mans opinions. The stock length progressives worked fantastic for me with blocks. I posted a long thread comparing my personal experiences with shocks verses lowering blocks with pictures and opinions. They are just my experiences, but they are actual, not internet heresay and regurgatation. Lots of opinions on this stuff, so use the search feature and you'll find tons.
The link in my sig My Low Rider with stock length shocks and lowering blocks.
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Last edited by bikerlaw; Nov 10, 2009 at 02:15 PM.
We just put the 1.00" blocks on a friends Lowrider and they work very well for her. She thinks that she might have bottomed out one time when she hit a VERY large pothole, but we could find no evidence of rubbing. She is also about 5.00' nothing and never has a passenger.
The one problem that did hit us right between the eyes was the factory, removable saddlebags that she has, the ones that slide forward on a rail to lock into place. After installing the blocks the right side bag lo longer had clearance for the support arm that engages a stud which is positioned below the rail, half way down the bag. The shock, being pulled rearward a bit, prevented the arm from going forward far enough for the locks to engage in the top rail. We had to make an adapter plate which bolted to the backside of the bag, to which the support arm was then bolted. This in turn lowered the support arm sufficiently to clear the shock. No one can see this plate and the bag is actually now more solid feeling than the one on the left side. If anyone needs the specs we arrived at, just contact me and I will did them out.
your belt guard will probably hit. The reason... your lowering the bike and keeping the travel the same. An 11.5" aftermarket shock will be better for you. The travel will be 1/2" less and you should have no clearance issues with the belt guard. You will get almost an inch lower. Best bet would be works performance or Ohlins to not only lower the bike, but, improve ride quality as well. Progressive lowering shocks ride very firm.
Very useful information, thank you. So you say an 11.5 inch shock would get me almost an inch lower, so would an 11" shock be just over an inch lower? (I'm wondering if I approach 1.5" if that would be too low...)
If I were to go with shocks, I'd probably go with Progressives to save some money. I don't mind the ride being a little more harsh as long as there was no bottoming out issues with my wife on the back.
I think the lowrider suspension specs are the same as the street bobs,I fitted PS HD 11" on the back and dropped the front 1" with PS Drop in kit...set the rear on the softest setting riding solo and have no probs..Summertime I ride a lot with the girlfriend so will just adjust to setting 3 or 4.Will be a testing time when I pack up the bike for touring lol.Unloaded the clearance between the rear fender and top of the belt guard is about 60mm(2 3/8") but should be ok as I think the shock only has 1 1/2" travel ? Lets hope so !
lowered my LR with progressive 11" HD shocks. the ride is stiff but no problems with bottoming out and 2-up is OK. if i were to do it again i'd get the standard and not the HD. even at 200 lbs its a stiff ride. if your going to ride 2-up, i would stay away from lowering block. my 2 cents.
lowered my LR with progressive 11" HD shocks. the ride is stiff but no problems with bottoming out and 2-up is OK. if i were to do it again i'd get the standard and not the HD. even at 200 lbs its a stiff ride. if your going to ride 2-up, i would stay away from lowering block. my 2 cents.
The main reason I am looking to do this is so that I can reach the ground better. If I get a shock that is one inch shorter but much stiffer, is that going to lower the bike or just defeat the purpose? I know when I currently sit on my bike, it has a certain amount of drop. Would it still drop some to get my feet closer to the ground?
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