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The bike, well, frame, on the jockeyjournal page required a GOOD bit of modification to the motor mounts to get the twin cam to work. It's not an out of the box swap kinda thing. That Atlas frame looks alright, but damn, $1,700 for a frame? Kinda steep.
If anyone thinks they are building a rigid chop and aren't going to do some welding and fitting they should not be building a rigid chop.
i agree with this, but for $1700 you should be able to have a decent roller if not a bolt in frame, i have looked into frames for a while now and can find a lot of decent frames for under $1000, unless you were to wreck your dyna what is the point of tearing it apart to build a rigid
$1700 is the admission price that a frame maker charges for building a frame that nearly nobody wants, i.e, a rigid 30*, 0-up, 0-out, Dyna T/C, for example.
Who is really out there building a dyna rigid? Not many people. I did one for a customer who got a repo dyna that had questionable numbers, so it became a rigid chop, and the underslung oil tank was unique at the time.
What is very unique is that the Atlas frame I bought fit every peice of the Dyna perfectly, the foot controls, brakes, tank, hell nearly everything fit perfectly.
I of course had to weld a whole bunch, exhaust tabs, seat mounts, the normal rigid build stuff. In the end the customer got a very well executed low-slung chopper, but still a very weird, one-off bike. It also ended up needing a fake oil bag to fill the void in the (missing) seat tube area. It became the electrical box.
That is why I enjoy building rigids from pre-1986 drivetrains, as everything works (if you use the right stuff) and you end up with a very balanced and size-proportionate traditional Harley chopper.
Dyna's and FXR's were built to run circles around "normal" Harley BT's. We should all remember that.
If Iwas shopping for a new frame for my T/C Dyna, I would be looking at a Chopperguys FXR Twin-Cam 200mm Tire unit, with a Modern FL 5-speed transmission/primary setup.
Find someone like Slim's Fab (http://slimsfab.blogspot.com/) in your area to do a weld on tail section for your frame. That way you still have VIN and title. Also, save by using all the original parts that you can such as the harness and most the sheet metal.
As for ride, it should be better than a stock bike with rigid struts.
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