turn signal unrelocation
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 236
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From: Nebraska
turn signal unrelocation
...or is it turn signal re-relocation?
I bought an 07 street bob
with the turn signal relocation kit, and I want to take it off and go back to stock. I did some searching here, there is a lot of threads about doing the relocation, but im not completely clear on what is needed to go back to stock.
My dealer gave me a set of the chrome standoffs for free, but said I would have to track down the mounting hardware. Right now there is a 1" torx pan head bolt in the hole where the standoffs go. The standoffs are 2" so do I just need to get some 3" bolts?
any help would be much appreciated.
I bought an 07 street bob
with the turn signal relocation kit, and I want to take it off and go back to stock. I did some searching here, there is a lot of threads about doing the relocation, but im not completely clear on what is needed to go back to stock. My dealer gave me a set of the chrome standoffs for free, but said I would have to track down the mounting hardware. Right now there is a 1" torx pan head bolt in the hole where the standoffs go. The standoffs are 2" so do I just need to get some 3" bolts?
any help would be much appreciated.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 188
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From:
Looking for this setup? Sorry I dont have all the pieces shown, couldnt find em.
Thats a 3 1/2" long bolt. Dont know the thread type though.
Also, that inner bracket that bolt is slid through, yours is probably threaded if you have the relocation kit. Youll need to find you new inner brackets or drill yours out so that bolt can slide through. THere should be plenty of people here that would let go of their brackets for next to nothing.
Thats a 3 1/2" long bolt. Dont know the thread type though.
Also, that inner bracket that bolt is slid through, yours is probably threaded if you have the relocation kit. Youll need to find you new inner brackets or drill yours out so that bolt can slide through. THere should be plenty of people here that would let go of their brackets for next to nothing.
Last edited by Joe376; Jan 9, 2010 at 02:53 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Chesterfield, VA
I probably still have all my parts from the original mounting set-up. Let me know if you are interested and I will dig them out. I can also gice you a factory diagram on the mounting. You can have them for cost of shipping.
John
John
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Nebraska
awesome pic! It looks like all I am missing is the bolt, Im pretty sure I have the inner piece thingy...I wondered what it was for when I took the strut covers off.
Does anyone know what thread that bolt is? That should be all I am missing.
jmpancoast, if I cant figure out the threading, I may take you up on your offer of the parts...
Does anyone know what thread that bolt is? That should be all I am missing.
jmpancoast, if I cant figure out the threading, I may take you up on your offer of the parts...
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Here are some parts diagrams (Bikebandit.com).
The bolt (#2/6 in first diagram) used at my FXD2003 is p/n 4116 SCREW, 5/16-18 X 3-5/8 hex cap
Edit: I do not know the length of the stand-offs on your bike. The bolt (#2/6) should not be to long otherwise it will damage the socket assembly (# 28/56 in first diagram)
FXD2003Rider
The bolt (#2/6 in first diagram) used at my FXD2003 is p/n 4116 SCREW, 5/16-18 X 3-5/8 hex cap
Edit: I do not know the length of the stand-offs on your bike. The bolt (#2/6) should not be to long otherwise it will damage the socket assembly (# 28/56 in first diagram)
FXD2003Rider
Last edited by FXD2003Rider; Jan 9, 2010 at 05:06 PM. Reason: Extra info added
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Joined: Jan 2007
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From: back home in Michigan
Yep, sounds like the correct size.
Thanks for the pic Joe. geared, anytime I replace nuts and bolts I always go stainless. Less corrosion, and I always add a flat washer to go under the head of the bolt on the underside of the fender. Make sure whichever way you go with the material of the nuts and bolts, that they are all the same. Less probability of oxidation that way.
Good luck.
Thanks for the pic Joe. geared, anytime I replace nuts and bolts I always go stainless. Less corrosion, and I always add a flat washer to go under the head of the bolt on the underside of the fender. Make sure whichever way you go with the material of the nuts and bolts, that they are all the same. Less probability of oxidation that way.
Good luck.