Its called a triple tree, and there's another "brace" above that.

 

This looks very good. Can anyone tell me the process on how to do this correctly? And what rattlecan paint to use?

Thanks,
Richard

 

Looking good derv. Its a mod i gotta do, among many others currently spinning up top.LOL

 

Cheers JRK, I know it looks a bit precarious in the photo but the bike is very solid - it ain't falling anywhere. There's actually a hefty wood & steel support bracket bolted into the R/H side bolt holes where the highway pegs mount, the jack is just there to support the L/H side, but that's not really needed because the kick stand is well chocked. I've been working around bikes and cars for years and not had any fall on me yet - I'll not go near 'em unless I'm 100% satsified they're safe.

To answer the questions - finish is in plain old Acrylic (out of a rattle can) onto an aluminium - sorry, aluminum - primer and then clearcoat lacquered over the top. I've finished quite a few fork legs using this procedure and it lasts very well, keep them waxed up and they seem to get less stone chipped. Nice thing is if you do happen to pick up a chip any touch-up paint "melts" back into the original just fine. I was actually going to do them in 2 pack epoxy but to be perfectly honest I could be bothered getting the spray guns out (and having to clean them up afterwards) and firing up the compressor for such a small job.

To answer Richards question - preparation is everything. I prefer to rub aluminium down dry with about a 220 is grade paper, it gives the primer something more substantial to key into than a wet finished fine paper. Make sure you're thorough, getting into the nooks and crannies and then - the most important part - DEGREASE it well no amend that.......degrease it VERY well! I use trade panel wipe - we buy it here in the UK for about Ł6 a gallon. Don't get it on your hands though - it's trichoethylene based and will strip the oils straight out of your skin! Then it's just a case of laying the paint on - building up the primer, colour and clear coats slowly and evenly

Summer's nearly here chaps, won't be long now - looking around the forum there are going to be some very smart Harleys round this year. Got to say: the work you guys do is outstanding, some of those bobbers are especially nice. Keep the photos coming

Derv

 

Sounds goog Derv. So it's 220 grit and make sure to use degreaser. JRK says that Rustoleum Epoxy Appliance Paint really does the trick and others swear by it as well. His recommendation is to put the paint on light coats in 5 minute intervals for a half hour and then STOP. That will allow 6 coats in a half hour. JRK says this has lasted on his bike for several years with no problems. Nice simple mod that looks good.

 

Hi Richard, yep the 220 will be fine - I use Aluminium oxide paper, it doesn;t clog up as easily glass or sandpaper.

I read JRKs post about the Rustoleum, I've never used it (never even seen it over here in the UK) so can't comment on the actual product but if it's an epoxy paint it'll more than likely be an isocyanide base so be careful using it - it's not nice stuff to inhale or get into your bloodstream. Not sure how quickly it will be surface dry either, but epoxy paints usually cure chemically (you have to mix them with a catalyst) whereas cellulose or acrylics air dry and are touch dry in about 10 mins. The obvious advantage of that is there's less chance of bits of air contamination sticking to it during the drying process. The downside of course is that celly and acrylics aren't as a hard wearing but anything you decide to use will have pros and cons - it's whatever you feel the most comfortable with.

Personally, one of the main reasons I chose to use acrylic paint for my forks rather than epoxy - apart from not wanting to fire up the compressor and getting my guns out - is that I've been doing some guitar work in my workshop recently so there's a fair bit of wood dust foating about otherwise I would have used the epoxy. If I'm doing bigger paint jobs (I re-finish guitar bodies as part of the restoration process sometimes) I'll usually spend a few hours deep cleaning the workshop before I start.

Let us know how you go on and lets see some pics when you done it. Any questions just ask, I'm sure one of us here will be able to help!

Derv

 

Nice Job!

 

looking good

 

You did a nice job and it looks good. Goes with the rest of the bike too.

 

I like the black lowers with the chrome dust covers. Nice small accent to keep it flowing. Good job.