Decrapifying my Dyna.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 2
From: Texas City, TX
Decrapifying my Dyna.
Thought I'd share, I know how we like pictures. I'm halfway through the process of "demodernizing" or "decrapifying" my FXDX. Friday night ALL the factory ignition, controllers, and wiring came out and all sensors were removed or tagged to be removed and plugged. I've probably taken about 100lbs or so worth of unnecessary stuff off of this bike since I brought it home. Now that all the over-complicated factory electronics are removed, I can start from scratch with a nice, compact, simple chopper wiring scheme using my Thunderheart ignition system.
http://www.thunder-heart.com/Electronic/asm5012.html
This will be my first wiring job on a bike, but I've messed around with a lot of car audio systems and a couple simple jobs on hot rods. I guess I never did those jobs the Proper way, so yesterday I bought a soldering setup and taught myself how to use it. Here is a small portion of what's been removed, excluding bags, windshield, fringe, etc...
All of this was inside of a two wheeled vehicle. Hardly necessary. Just think, my bike is carb'd, imagine how much of this crap is in the FI bikes!
All of that rat nest will be replaced with this simple, compact setup. (Factory regulator/stator will be retained, the crank position sensor is the ONLY sensor that will be used. All others will be scrapped and their holes filled.)
This is how the bike will be wired, not shown are the charging system(regulator/stator) and the few accessories that will be wired in. (head/tail light and horn.) A speedo/tach will not be used.
Just for the hell of it, this is the bike with a big hole where all the factory electronics and battery go/went and the tank parallel with the backbone.
and this is the view until the tank gets chopped up (shaved, narrowed, and slightly Frisco'd) and I take a grinder to the lever perches to get them smoothed out. (still need to buy an aftermarket throttle assembly. stock grips from newer model HD's-free from a very nice HD service man)
http://www.thunder-heart.com/Electronic/asm5012.html
This will be my first wiring job on a bike, but I've messed around with a lot of car audio systems and a couple simple jobs on hot rods. I guess I never did those jobs the Proper way, so yesterday I bought a soldering setup and taught myself how to use it. Here is a small portion of what's been removed, excluding bags, windshield, fringe, etc...
All of this was inside of a two wheeled vehicle. Hardly necessary. Just think, my bike is carb'd, imagine how much of this crap is in the FI bikes!
All of that rat nest will be replaced with this simple, compact setup. (Factory regulator/stator will be retained, the crank position sensor is the ONLY sensor that will be used. All others will be scrapped and their holes filled.)
This is how the bike will be wired, not shown are the charging system(regulator/stator) and the few accessories that will be wired in. (head/tail light and horn.) A speedo/tach will not be used.
Just for the hell of it, this is the bike with a big hole where all the factory electronics and battery go/went and the tank parallel with the backbone.
and this is the view until the tank gets chopped up (shaved, narrowed, and slightly Frisco'd) and I take a grinder to the lever perches to get them smoothed out. (still need to buy an aftermarket throttle assembly. stock grips from newer model HD's-free from a very nice HD service man)
Last edited by CountryPunk; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:04 AM.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,815
Likes: 16
From: Virginia
So what's the purpose of this? Didn't your bike run fine as it was? Seems like a waste of time to me as I'm sure the minimal amount of weight removed from the factory wiring wouldn't make that much of a difference. You couldn't see the wires before so it's not like it was an eyesore.
Just curious why you would rip out factory wiring to replace it with more wiring unless the bike wasn't running right.
Just curious why you would rip out factory wiring to replace it with more wiring unless the bike wasn't running right.
Last edited by PigInaBlanket; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:07 AM.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
great work!!!! You forgot something.... those heavy *** passenger floorboards. Hmmm....add aluminum rims, weightless rotors...wow. could be one really light dyna! Don't worry about the wiring... it's easy to do. Wait a minute, I don't see any fuses here. Another cool mod would be the V&H competition exhaust... lot of weight savings there. Oh and you should feel how light my Ohlins are over stock shocks.
Last edited by rounder; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:17 AM.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 2
From: Texas City, TX
There are faults in the factory setup that are a pain to deal with. Read the threads about people just removing the electronics from their bars, a total headache. There are systems that rely on other systems that rely on other systems from the factory. This way, there is no guess work left if any problems occur. All of the factory systems and sensors are not necessary to control an engine that spins a wheel. This wasn't done for weight loss, it's just a small benefit. I plan on modifying the area where the electrical panel and battery box are as well. I haven't decided How exactly yet. (I just realized I haven't answered your question. No, the bike didn't run fine as it was. Between the previous owners shoddy electrical work and my constant removing of parts, it made more sense to start over. Besides, this aftermarket ignition is much more functional than OEM, it's a fully computer programmable performance ignition.)
Last edited by CountryPunk; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:41 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,303
Likes: 2
From: Texas City, TX
great work!!!! You forgot something.... those heavy *** passenger floorboards. Hmmm....add aluminum rims, weightless rotors...wow. could be one really light dyna! Don't worry about the wiring... it's easy to do. Wait a minute, I don't see any fuses here. Another cool mod would be the V&H competition exhaust... lot of weight savings there. Oh and you should feel how light my Ohlins are over stock shocks.
Last edited by CountryPunk; Feb 7, 2010 at 11:31 AM.
Club Member
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 10,815
Likes: 16
From: Virginia
There are faults in the factory setup that are a pain to deal with. Read the threads about people just removing the electronics from their bars, a total headache. There are systems that rely on other systems that rely on other systems from the factory. This way, there is no guess work left if any problems occur. All of the factory systems and sensors are not necessary to control and engine that spins a wheel. This wasn't done for weight loss, it's just a small benefit. I plan on modifying the area where the electrical panel and battery box are as well. I haven't decided How exactly yet. (I just realized I haven't answered your question. No, the bike didn't run fine as it was. Between the previous owners shoddy electrical work and my constant removing of parts, it made more sense to start over. Besides, this aftermarket ignition is much more functional than OEM, it's a fully computer programmable performance ignition.)
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,333
Likes: 3
From: Jefferson, Oregon
Nice man. You have some interesting ideas concerning your bike and I think the simple wiring is great for your ride.
I want to build/modify something similar myself. A simple, barebones motorcycle.
I want to build/modify something similar myself. A simple, barebones motorcycle.
