Finished sanding, epoxy tomorrow!

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

Feb 24, 2010 | 06:02 PM

#11

JRK5892

Banned

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 19,481

Likes: 25

From: Chicago suburbs (Elgin/Schaumburg)

the uneven coat, peel, and fish eyes are from the prep and contamidation in the metal... now that you have a good coat, before you lay your next coat sand that out with 800 to get a smooth surface, wipe with denatured alchole and then shoot again. will get it like glass.... it should look like this as it goes on
glass smooth

Feb 24, 2010 | 06:04 PM

#12

Failz

Thread Starter

Tourer

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 430

Likes: 1

From: Hampton, VA

If I don't like the way it looks tomorrow I'll go get some of that VHT. Thanks for the tip jousley

Feb 24, 2010 | 06:15 PM

#13

Failz

Thread Starter

Tourer

Joined: Oct 2008

Posts: 430

Likes: 1

From: Hampton, VA

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRK5892

Thanks Joe, I tried to do clean it as best as I could before I sprayed. I used brake cleaner and a sponge. Also I tried to do the most even and light coats I could but this is my first time doing any painting that matters so hopefully next time it'll go over better. I'll get it eventually. Do I have to wait a week or can I do it tomorrow??

Feb 25, 2010 | 01:55 AM

#14

JRK5892

Banned

Joined: Mar 2007

Posts: 19,481

Likes: 25

From: Chicago suburbs (Elgin/Schaumburg)

the sponge is prob what did it or the brake cleaner, was it non clorine? so much crap and contamidance are in a sponge, always use a tack cloth, you do have to wait unless you sand it all the way down. personally, i would sand down and start over, it will give you a better finish and better durrability, sand it with 320 get a gooooood grit on that sucker, wipe down with some acitone, then tack cloth, then spray again... try warming up the can a bit in some warm water for like 5 to 10 min prior. no worries man, it is cheap to start over, just takes time and that is free when your doing it yourself. let me know if you have any questions i would be happy to help

Feb 25, 2010 | 04:29 AM

#15

rounder

Ultimate HDF Member

Joined: Oct 2007

Posts: 7,562

Likes: 11

From: Palm Harbor fl.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Failz

If I don't like the way it looks tomorrow I'll go get some of that VHT. Thanks for the tip jousley

just a note .... the vht is not good if you want a gloss black finish.... I got a can, used it on one part, after it dried, I removed the paint with acetone and started over with good old rustoleum appliance paint. The appliance paint comes out in a beautiful gloss finish. the VHT is more like a satin/semigloss look. Prep is the key, good prep and the epoxy comes out like glass. My Ohlins have the epoxy on them, as well as my handlebars and licence plate trim piece. They came out as good as anything I have had powdercoated. Thing about epoxy is to spray really thin coats. I found that the first coat should just be a mist coat not even completely covering the part in black, then 10 min later another thin coat, and finally a third.... I don't think laying the stuff on thick is a good idea. The thicker you go the longer it takes to cure and the softer it is...
And yeah, I agree with joe you need to prep better.

Feb 25, 2010 | 08:13 AM

#16

icufltrn

Tourer

Joined: Apr 2009

Posts: 327

Likes: 1

From: new bedford, ma

i agree with prep. also brake cleaner makes it impossible for paint to stick. (that's what i used to clean off the first attempt) figured it out after i spent an hour cleaning paint off the 1st fork. i used alcohol after all snading then hit it with very thin coats. i also painted rear tail light sides and my tach and speedo. the better the prep the better the outcome. would take pix of forks but look the same as everyone elses