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Stupid question...about lowering

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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 06:59 PM
  #11  
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mine has the 2" drop in the rear but none in the front. I'm ordering a 2" drop-in kit for the front also.

the rear WILL hit the fender on the brake caliper if you ride 2up without getting stiffer shocks. I'm 190lbs + my wife 110lbs and it put a small dent in the bottom of the fender but you can't see it so I'm just going to keep it.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:46 PM
  #12  
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If you do a Search you will find some have had the rear tire bottom out in the fender and even tear out tail light wires with it just 1" lower. I would like to get 1" lowering block's but my Search stopped me from doing it. Maybe someone on here can shed some light on this.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:48 PM
  #13  
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I can reach it just hurts my lower back after a while because I can't lean back. I looked into getting 9 inch pull back bars in black with re wiring kit and it was almost $800. I'm just not ready to sink more money into the bike right now, just getting ideas...
 
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Old Jul 2, 2010 | 07:50 PM
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I only weigh 160lbs and never ride 2 up anymore. I've never had a problem even with the shocks set on the first setting. I bumped them up one notch for a stiffer ride.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 01:24 AM
  #15  
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I put 1" lowering blocks on my 08 WG. Feet more firmly planted on the ground now, and the pegs feel a little closer. I changed my air cleaner cover to a flat cover and it is amazing how much better it feels without that thing pressing on my knee.

Cant say if the handle bars feel closer because I wasn't having a problem there. Maybe you can look into pull back risers that will allow you to roll the handle bars back toward you without needing new cables?

I have a reach seat for 06 & up dyna's for sale (52288-06). I felt to cramped with it. Moved me too much forward. I have a 30" inseam.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 07:20 AM
  #16  
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The 2010 Wide Glide is already running 11.5" shocks and sits quite a bit lower than the older models.
It sounds to me you need to change handlebars before lowering the bike if you are getting a backache while riding.
In my shop we sell handlebars for as little as $25 and many styles in the $25 - $50 range. If you're just needing to move your hands back enough to put a comfortable bend at your elbow and let you sit more upright you probably won't need any wiring or cable changes so the labor should only run 1/2 hour at the shop rate.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:47 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by luv_my_harley
So my husband said he heard that if you drop the front and back (you should do both at the same time so it doesn't look weird right?) it will affect the way the bike rides and it make it more rough. If that's the case I won't do it.
I highly recommend you use a lowering block kit as opposed to new lower shocks. I bet the bike will actually ride better for you. Increasing the angle of the rear shocks will actually make the rear feel softer. As a light weight rider, you'll like the increased softness to the rear. The change in ride height will not change the reach to the handlebars. The change in rear height will change the angle of the seat/frame and it will feel like you sit in the bike more. Also, before you lower the front, lower the rear only first. You may actually like the way the bike feels with the rear only lowered. The big radius pipes will look even better with the rear only lowered. You may not notice much of a change in your handling. sure the rake will increase, but many feel just fine with that. Should it be a problem, then lower the front. Head to e-bay for some lowering blocks, I recommend only lowering 3/4" or 1" at most.
 

Last edited by rounder; Jul 3, 2010 at 08:52 AM.
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 08:55 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by luv_my_harley
I can reach it just hurts my lower back after a while because I can't lean back. I looked into getting 9 inch pull back bars in black with re wiring kit and it was almost $800. I'm just not ready to sink more money into the bike right now, just getting ideas...
Sounds to me that you should take things one at a time. Your reach to the bars is important, to make you comfortable and put you in complete control. Your current handlebars will move in the clamps, which may help bring them back towards you a little. Sometimes quite small things can help a lot. If you have a short reach (ladies tend to have shorter arms than a man of the same height) stay away from high bars.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rounder
I highly recommend you use a lowering block kit as opposed to new lower shocks. I bet the bike will actually ride better for you. Increasing the angle of the rear shocks will actually make the rear feel softer. As a light weight rider, you'll like the increased softness to the rear.
'rounder'
If she was to install a 1" lowering block, and hit a large bump and didn't see it coming and bottomed out hard, could that tear out the rear light wires or damage something? I had always thought that with stock shocks it was OK to lower the rear by 1" but some on here have had damage to there bikes doing that...Thanks.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by GPHDXLC
'rounder'
If she was to install a 1" lowering block, and hit a large bump and didn't see it coming and bottomed out hard, could that tear out the rear light wires or damage something? I had always thought that with stock shocks it was OK to lower the rear by 1" but some on here have had damage to there bikes doing that...Thanks.
Her lighter weight and proper preload should keep her from bottoming out. Better to do shorter shocks if riding 2up or one is a heavier rider just to be safe. My lowering block recommendation is based on her avatar in which she looks thin and probably is light weight for the spring on the stock shock.
 
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