Front Fork Springs?
6th Gear
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Winterville, NC
Hey guys I just got through putting the progressive stock height springs in my Super Glide. I think the measurement was to get the fluid 4.5 inches from the top of the fork tube with the tube fully collapsed without spring. I accomplished it by using a squeeze bulb. I think it was a baster I found in the cooking department that was on clearance. I measured 4.5 inches from the tip, and wrapped some tape to indicate the level. I put some oil in the fork until it was a little high inserted the squeeze bulb in the tube until the tape was at the top of the fork tube. After that it was easy. Just squeeze and it will suck up the oil and leave it at just the right amount of oil. I think the Harley tool works on the same principle. I sorta like the McGyver approach myself.
Good luck,
Good luck,
Thread Starter
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 838
Likes: 35
From: Northern California
The big *** wrench you need is a 35mm - which of course in typical Harley fashion is a size that doesn't commonly come in any set and pretty much has to be special ordered (at lease around here) - I got a 35mm socket for a 3/4" driver from my brother-in-law who is a heavy duty mechanic; no idea where he got it though (tool truck probably) cuz I couldn't find one anywhere - Sears makes em but they are a special order..... you could always just put a rag on the nut (to keep it from getting scratched) and use a crescent wrench though; just be careful if you are not using a socket cuz it'll be harder to keep everything from flying out when you undo the caps. You definitely need to have the front end off the ground or the tension will be too much. There is no need for torque specs when you tighten em back up cuz they just bottom out.
Also, with the bike up on a jack and the fork completely extended, is there still tension on the fork nuts?
One other thing, from looking at the shop manual, it appears the only way to drain the oil out is to remove the whole fork from the bike. A buddy of mine said his street glide had a drain plug on the side, but my Dyna does not.
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
Ok, So I have never tore down a set of Harley forks. My question is if I just get the proper kg spring for my weight and change the oil on my forks will they be say alot better than stock? I dont ride fast anymore and really dont want to buy the gold valves,emulators and so on. What can I expect out of just springs and oil (correct for my weight) As opposed to doing the emulators as well. I weigh 265 and can easily bottom out the front end well under the speed limits,but my major issue is currently is that the forks seem like the oil is way too light and springs collapse on cornering and cause dragging way to early in the MPH.
I am gonna do some 11.5 430s once I get the forks dialed in a little better.
I am gonna do some 11.5 430s once I get the forks dialed in a little better.
I think you would also be better served if you bought the rear Ricors as well, instead of the 430s or the 418s, there is not too much difference in price, at least MSRP, and there are some pretty positive reviews on them. I would also stick with the 12", you want a better ride, spend $$$ and you then want to reduce the travel?
CB
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
I was referring to parts eeter on the rear shock and I did not say anything was wrong with Works front springs. You have to invest some time into figuring out the best set up for the rate transitions and if you use the Ricors it is most likely over kill.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,306
Likes: 3
From: Vancouver, BC
Is it 35mm or 1-3/8"?
Also, with the bike up on a jack and the fork completely extended, is there still tension on the fork nuts?
One other thing, from looking at the shop manual, it appears the only way to drain the oil out is to remove the whole fork from the bike. A buddy of mine said his street glide had a drain plug on the side, but my Dyna does not.
Also, with the bike up on a jack and the fork completely extended, is there still tension on the fork nuts?
One other thing, from looking at the shop manual, it appears the only way to drain the oil out is to remove the whole fork from the bike. A buddy of mine said his street glide had a drain plug on the side, but my Dyna does not.
With the bike on the lift there is still tension in the spring in the fork - just way less than it would be on the ground. You really can't do this job without at least lifting the front end (although I'm sure someone will chime in with an "oh ya? well I did.....")
Some models (deckers) have a drain plug but the dynas don't - you will have to pull the fork to drain it unless you magyver up a suction thingy of some sort I suppose like the guy with the turkey baster was mentionning earlier in this thread.
Last edited by CRF; Jul 15, 2010 at 10:52 PM.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 4,919
Likes: 23
From: Seattle, WA
Is it 35mm or 1-3/8"?
Also, with the bike up on a jack and the fork completely extended, is there still tension on the fork nuts?
One other thing, from looking at the shop manual, it appears the only way to drain the oil out is to remove the whole fork from the bike. A buddy of mine said his street glide had a drain plug on the side, but my Dyna does not.
Also, with the bike up on a jack and the fork completely extended, is there still tension on the fork nuts?
One other thing, from looking at the shop manual, it appears the only way to drain the oil out is to remove the whole fork from the bike. A buddy of mine said his street glide had a drain plug on the side, but my Dyna does not.
The springs have a little preload; so even with the fork completely extended, there is a little tension on the springs ... the 'rebound springs will prevent the 'release' of all tension on the main fork spring in the tube ....
Depends on the year of your bike ... I think my '05 had a screw at the bottom of the lower sliders just aft and above the axle ... (my 41mm fat boy forks do) ... think the newer Dyna models might have eliminated the fork oil drain screw (plug) ... but not sure ....
R/
'Chop
Banned
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,494
Likes: 5
It is easier, safer and more accurate to just pull the fork tubes. 4 bolts the fender comes off. 2 bolts the caliper comes off. 1 nut and 2 screws the axle pulls out and the wheel comes off. Loosen the fork caps. 4 screws on the triple the fork tubes slide out. I can have the fork tubes off in 10 minutes and you can work away from the bike so there is less possibility to damage or spill oil all over your tank. Much easier to be able to put your full weight on the fork cap and unscrew it to remove and install the spring and there is more than just a little preload built in. Easier to empty, refill and measure the oil height. Get the special fork cap socket, clears the bars and only rests on the flats so you don't booger up the fork cap.
http://www.handsontools.com/Motion-P...t_p_53865.html
Food for thought.
CB
http://www.handsontools.com/Motion-P...t_p_53865.html
Food for thought.
CB
Last edited by NoLongerAmember; Jul 15, 2010 at 11:59 PM.
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Road Captain
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
From: Baton Rouge, LA
I too have a FXDL and went with works 12 5/8 shocks and fork spring kit. It rides much better but we did as the instructions said and started with the middle section. We'll probably add the rest of the spacers to stiffen it up a bit more. Handling is much better at speed. Fork dive under hard braking is still there hence trying to stiffen it up as is.