your right, but (and this is really going out on a wire) what if the oil had degraded the clutch material enough that it now needed adjustment.

and frankly i dont think anybody has MY best interests in mind when marketing and trying to sell me stuff, Harley or any one else.

but, in this case we NEED a control, so going back to the factory fluid is the best thing to do. Im all for putting the best stuff in my bike just like the next guy, but the best engine oil might not be the end all be all for the rest of the bike.

 

Negatory. Not on Dynas. They're all different and most of them take little (if any) more than 2.5 quarts. If you have a Dyna and do your own oil changes?

Word to the wise. Easier to add than remove.

 

I took the bike for a quick ride and all seems to be good. I still need to adjust the clutch lever a little. When it is adjusted per the manual it lets out pretty close to the top (released). I like mine to start to catch right in the middle.

 

I have tried many different types of oil in my primary and found that the HD F+ had the least amount of shavings on the drain plug. This tells me that the HD oil is doing a better job.

 

Yes they do take more than 2.5 quarts (at least the 2009's and newer do), and yes, I've always done my own work on my bikes. 2.5 sit in the pan and the other half is in the filter. Not only does the owners manual say, the service manual says it as do the 3 tech's I know (one's an indie and two work at a local dealership).

Word to the wise. Easier to add than remove.[/quote]

Easier to scratch up cylinder walls and wear rings and warp heads (especially if one lives and rides where it gets crazy hot in the summer, like I did with my '72 ironhead in Las Vegas) than have the correct amount already in there, that's what that mentality will get someone. Air-cooled motors need that oil or they don't last long.

 

Oil volume is way less critical than oil temperature and thermal stability. If you can keep it cool enough, you could run a quart of oil. The extra oil is there to make sure there is always the minimum, and never less than the minimum, and to pick up heat from the internal parts and transfer it to the cases to radiate away. I would bet that the last few ounces don't make much of a difference.
Run synthetic in the engine and gearbox. I was convinced fifteen years ago when I was riding an '85 BMW K100RS. I'll tell the story if anyone is interested. If your oil temp. gets up to dangerous levels, install an oil radiator. If there is still any doubt, or if you get stuck in traffic often, forced air cooling on the engine and radiator is the final resort. I guess you could also fit an auxiliary oil tank someplace to increase volume and radiating surface area.
The lubricative qualities of the oil are vitally important in maintaining a continuous film of oil. Synthetics are far superior to mineral oils in this department.
I'd invest in an oil temperature guage. If you can rig up an alarm, so much the better. Same for the oil pressure guage. You probably won't be looking when the oil pump quits or the temp. ramps up past the safe zone. Ears work all the time.

 

it barely takes 3 quarts, closer to 2.5

I too don't like when it grabs all the way out, the solution to that is in the clutch adjustment screw. they say 3/4 of a turn out. I do half a turn. some people like it to be all the way out so they can shift with a finger.