Can't get front brake pressure
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 6,642
Likes: 48
From: Ogden, UT
I can bleed the front fast and easy with only myself. First thing to do when doing a new line is to uninstall the old line then just install the new line to the reservoir. Now get fluid through the line till it come out the end then install the line to the caliper. you'll have good pressure right away and just a couple breaks of the bleeder screw to get all air out and all will be perfect. Be sure to do this with the master cylinder cover off. I have speed bleeders and this may be a tad easier with them, but, the speed bleeder is completely unnecessary for sure. Stick with the stock bleeders. Also have a couple rags around for the brake fluid that comes out the line(won't be much if your fast ). don't waste your money on that vac. contraption above, it is completely unnecessary. My way turns bleeding into a 2 min. job for 50 bucks less!!!!!
To say it is completely unnecessary is rather bold and shortsighted.
If you flush your lines annually or so, they make it a very simple job.
Nkauf, The autoparts store on RAFL has a hand vacuum bleeder in stock. Sorry I didn't get back with ya, I have been prepping for my rebuild next weekend. Truly a headless chicken. Glad you got it all figured out.
Road Captain
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 626
Likes: 125
From: Reading, PA
I thought you weren't supposed to install a speed bleeder until after the system was filled with hydraulic fluid?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVjPVhoPHow
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVjPVhoPHow
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 2,427
Likes: 2
From: Smack Dab in the Middle of Louisiana
Snipper, I have to respectfully disagree with you here on this one. Brake Fluid is a hydroscopic substance, it will attract moisture, and should be changed every several years or so.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 7,562
Likes: 11
From: Palm Harbor fl.
It is still completely unnecessary. To flush a line completely(change fluid) simply attach one of those clear bleeder lines to the bleeder screw. Open bleeder and pump the fluid out with the brake lever(old fluid drains into a small bowl or cup). As the master cylinder gets low add the new fluid, in just a few minutes nothing but the fresh fluid will be coming out and you have your brake lines flushed out. No spills. So easy even a caveman can do it. The speedbleeder is great for this purpose(bleeder is about 3 or 4 bucks each I believe). Anyways, I believe it is better to help someone out with an effective, easy, free method of getting the brakes bled than having the person feel he needs to go spend 40 bucks on some unnecessary tool to get it done right. After all....40 bucks can buy lots of beer!
Last edited by rounder; Aug 22, 2010 at 11:59 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 3,352
Likes: 4
From: Augusta, GA
I think the term you are referring to though is hygroscopic (absorbs water), which DOT 3 and DOT 4 are but, DOT 5 is hydrophobic, meaning it does not absorb water. One other feature of DOT 5 is it doesn't melt paint.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 1,189
Likes: 3
From: Massachusetts
A small vacuum pump is worth its weight in gold when doing brakes. Once you use one you'll never go back to doing it the old fashioned way.
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I can bleed the front fast and easy with only myself. First thing to do when doing a new line is to uninstall the old line then just install the new line to the reservoir. Now get fluid through the line till it come out the end then install the line to the caliper. you'll have good pressure right away and just a couple breaks of the bleeder screw to get all air out and all will be perfect.....
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I have power bled systems, pressure bled systems, vacuum bled systems, and the old-school pump the brakes and turn the bleed valve methods to bleed various brake systems over the years but the first time I rebuilt the front system on my 01 FXD from master cylinder to caliper pistons, it was a **** to bleed!
I tried the vacuum method called out in the manual first and that didn't work. I was surprised because that way always works in my cars and most small airplanes. I tied the lever back and let it sit overnight, I tried it all with no joy until I ran across a method that did work...I bled it from the master down, each connection all the way out to the valve. Loosen the banjo bolt on the master and bleed it, move to the banjo on the caliper loosen it and bleed it there, and finally bleed it through the calipers via the valve...a little messy but it worked like a champ. I have done it that way a couple of times since then with the same success.
I tried the vacuum method called out in the manual first and that didn't work. I was surprised because that way always works in my cars and most small airplanes. I tied the lever back and let it sit overnight, I tried it all with no joy until I ran across a method that did work...I bled it from the master down, each connection all the way out to the valve. Loosen the banjo bolt on the master and bleed it, move to the banjo on the caliper loosen it and bleed it there, and finally bleed it through the calipers via the valve...a little messy but it worked like a champ. I have done it that way a couple of times since then with the same success.