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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 12:18 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by abulldog76
i was aiming for the best accertion. what heads would you recommed to use. what wrong with the s.e ones i got the d shape ones. thanks for your repile
A 30T pulley and a good 2-1 will give you a nice gain.
 
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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #12  
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iron gear what would you change in my set up to give me more power like you have. thanks
 
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 01:27 AM
  #13  
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It is not my bike, I merely built the engine.

We are talking 103 here.

A lot of small things are important, as well as the big things.
For example, 2 engines can both be 10.1 comp, but only one has a 30 thou squish area.
I really do favour the 30 thou cometic gasket.
Nothing wrong with 255 cams, but they are not the only ones. They are well priced, and deliver the power right where you want it though.
I think the SE valves are too large. 1.9 max inlet is where I like to be. 85 percent of inlet size for exhaust is workable, and less can be ok. 1.900 x 85% =1615 (I use 1625)
You can just rework your own heads for less.
Make sure the valves are as far out into the cyl as protrusion heights and piston clearance will allow, as this is a number one criteria for good flow.
Cast flat tops are cheap, and work well, for non high revving work.
Slip ons, or 2:1 are best.
I do not favour any type of drag pipe, when you are not draggin.

So......
a cam where you want it.
careful attention the the head set-up.
good squish.
Exhaust for performance, and not looks.
All the a/c elements that I ever checked on a flow bench were all good, if they had a hi flo element(like k&N)
a good tune.
truth is, it is mostly in the heads(with a well picked cam).


crank just goes round
pistons just go up and down
heads perform the work
(within reason)
 
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 03:42 AM
  #14  
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thanks iron gear
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 05:09 AM
  #15  
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I just remembered......
I used a -4 andrews cam gear.
Aids starting, and ensures the power does not drop off too early.
I heavily recommend one with 255s.
 
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Old Sep 9, 2010 | 10:43 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by pcbunn
Your advice is appreciated and it does sound like you know what your doing, so would you mind suggesting the proper build for my 96" 2010 WG?
I've already got Samson shorties (which I would like to keep as I like the look), SE Ventilator, and PCV. The local tuner is willing to build the 96 to my specs so what would you suggest for a good road build? Thanks.
What does the tuner suggest for the kind of power you want?

I may be a better idea to see what he says then ask here if it's a good build. Someone may have done the same thing already and have good/bad experience with it.
 
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Old Sep 10, 2010 | 06:15 AM
  #17  
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just got the bike dyno 97/107. the hp should go up when i ride the bike in bit more. whats your guys option on stroker piston vs the flat top one i have now
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #18  
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Default Bumping Up HP on 2010 Fatbob

duplicate
 

Last edited by DynaScott; Sep 21, 2010 at 01:15 PM. Reason: Dup
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:12 PM
  #19  
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Default Bumping Up HP on 2010 Fatbob

Ok, I am new to this. I looked through the threads but there is so much useful information it is overwhelming. I want to know how do you really get to the 100HP club.
At first i added an V&H 2-1 exhaust, because it look sick, then the Dealer said it dyno'd at 77hp. so now i am getting the itch how high can i go.
Any one have ideas?


Thanks
 
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Old Sep 21, 2010 | 01:23 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by DynaScott
Ok, I am new to this. I looked through the threads but there is so much useful information it is overwhelming. I want to know how do you really get to the 100HP club.
At first i added an V&H 2-1 exhaust, because it look sick, then the Dealer said it dyno'd at 77hp. so now i am getting the itch how high can i go.
Any one have ideas?


Thanks
how high is only limited by how deep your wallet is.
 
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