Ignition switch relocation to the horn area
Good luck!
Oh and I know this is a stupid question but how exactly do these ignitions (OEM FXDC/FXDWG) work? My FXDB only has the ignition in the neck and no security system so I have no idea how these fancy switches work. Do you need a key to turn?
Cut a piece of 1/8" x 1-1/2" flatbar to about 3" long. Drill a hole at each end, one for mounting behind the rubber isolator behind the horn and the other to mount the toggle through. Paint it black and buy a rubber cover for the toggle. You have to look hard to see it once done.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Remove the gas tank and pull off the plastic cover under the frame, right behind the ign switch. You'll see two or so tucked in plastic sheathed wiring bundles. Tug around and find the one that goes to the ignition switch.
Pull this out the right side as far as you can. Slice the sheathing about 3 or so inches and separate the 3 wires inside it to find the red one, the red one is the one you cut, it's about 10 gauge.
Now strip the wires about 1/2" and connect two 2' or so long 10 gauge wires to each cut end. Those are tough wires to solder, very little room to do so, so I used two Posi-Locks (you can buy them at J&P Cycles).
Now run these wires down the backbone of the bike to the horn area. Use zip-ties to secure to frame or existing wiring. Also use shrink tube or electrical tape to give you a little more protection, at least in areas prone to chafing.
The wire is stiff, so bend it to fit, and connect it to your toggle switch. I used a marine grade switch and a waterproof rubber toggle cover. On the safe side, I bought a 50 amp switch, it's no larger than the lower rated ones.
The mounting bracket was easy to make, but I made mine "T" shaped to accomodate two toggles, one on each side of the "T". The other toggle is for my oil cooler fans. Just make sure to trial fit your gas tank before calling it good. If your mount is too tall, it could hit the underside of your tank. Remove the horn before even beginning the project and take measurements.
Now instead of using a key or even the handlebar run switch, I just flip the toggle and hit the starter button. While my finger is flipping the switch, I'm reminded to push the compression release down on each side of it.
Very easy mod to do, especially if you use the Posi-Locks. I first tried to solder it, but I couldn't even twist those wires together unless I stripped about 2" of insulation from them, but there just isn't enough wire or room under there to do so. I went out to my shop and found two 10 gauge Posi-Locks left over from an old Jeep build. I even stuffed some dielectric grease in there. Instant splice!
Very handy mod! I hated that frame mounted switch. It used to get caught between clicks so I either couldn't remove it, couldn't turn it, or the key would fall to ground whenever I turned it off.
This mod also allows you to totally lose your keys and fob, as long as you've filed off the key nub and left the ignition turned to "ON", which is how you use this mod to begin with. You just flip the toggle and enter the code. On the other hand, your security system still works and you can still lock your forks, use the "acc" function or whatever you choose to do. If you leave your bike at a shop, just flip the toggle to "On", turn the ignition to "Off" and hand them the unaltered key. The bike now acts like a stock bike, so they don't have to learn your simple protocol.
Last edited by HemiOrange; Mar 31, 2011 at 01:48 AM.


