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ATF in primary...WOW!

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  #21  
Old 09-14-2010, 03:01 PM
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Bel-Ray is the only way to go.
 
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  #22  
Old 09-14-2010, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by CKS
I have got to ask, Where did you get that cover?
JP cycles as well as these guys.

http://www.retrocycle.com/CustomChro...e__Covers.html


.
 
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  #23  
Old 09-14-2010, 03:45 PM
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this post is an interesting read
thanks to the op for bringing it up since I learned a few things I didn't know
 
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  #24  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Grendel4
ATF, being thinner and designed for use with clutch paks, allows the clutch to disengage more fully and the transmission to shift more smoothly. High viscoisty oils create a 'drag' when the clutch is disengaged.

I like the 'idea' of using ATF in my primary. It IS designed for use with clutch paks. But there's more going on in the primary than just the clutch. There's the primary chain and bearings and tensioner shoe and other stuff, too.

Many aftermarket clutch makers recommend the use of ATF with their clutches. But they're not concerned with anything other than the clutch they sold you.

I'm going to shy away from it until somebody convinces me otherwise. The low viscosity of ATF has me concerned.
OK I understand now.
 
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  #25  
Old 09-14-2010, 07:54 PM
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I have been using atf in many different motorcycles for about 45 years now.Works great for me.It was recomended to me by a Bultaco rep and I have used it ever since.
 
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  #26  
Old 09-14-2010, 08:11 PM
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The issue that concerns me is the chain and teeth wear on the clutch basket and compensator sprocket. I fully understand the benefits of ATF to the clutch plates, it's just the other pieces in there.
 
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  #27  
Old 09-14-2010, 09:21 PM
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What I can say is that the dreaded overnight clunk is gone
This is easily fixed with a properly adjusted clutch, and by holding in the clutch for about 10 seconds while the engine heats up. I generally do not ride the bike until the motor temp gets to 42 degrees Centigrade. I don't think that you need ATF in the primary to resolve the clunk.
If your clutch is spot on your transmission will not even clunk when shifting gears. If you hit your marks it will just click right into gear.

I use AMSOIL 20w-50 in all three holes. You can use what you wish. I am not saying that AMSOIL 20w-50 is what you need to use. Please do not misinterpret. I am just saying that I would not rely on fluid to solve most of my tuning problems. As mentioned. A correctly set clutch, hit the shift marks, and be sure to have your clutch lever pulled when the bike warms. Roll it back about 2 feet, put it in first, and you most likely will not have a clunk. No matter what fluid you use. JMO
 
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  #28  
Old 09-15-2010, 05:48 AM
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Barnett says the use of formula+ is not recommended for their clutches, type F ATF only.

I've never seen any wear issues with its use and the people that use it swears the bike shifts smoother and clutch lock up is solid.
 
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  #29  
Old 09-15-2010, 06:00 AM
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Interesting thread. Thanks for all the info. I've read on here also about letting the bike warm up for a few seconds before shifting into first after an overnight sit. I pull the clutch about 2 or 3 times and as the idle drops, it doesn't clunk. I do like that primary cover though.....
 
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  #30  
Old 09-15-2010, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by editbrain
This is easily fixed with a properly adjusted clutch, and by holding in the clutch for about 10 seconds while the engine heats up...

...Roll it back about 2 feet, put it in first, and you most likely will not have a clunk. No matter what fluid you use. JMO
Thanks. :thumbsup:
 
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