Battery problems; now no power
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 221
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From: Fairfax, VA
Yes, the new battery is fully charged (dealer told me it was and I have the battery tender on it with a solid green light).
If I understand all this correctly, even if it was the voltage regulator, I would still have some power to the bike off the battery? I picked up a multimeter and some fuses at lunch today and will check it out later tonight.
If I understand all this correctly, even if it was the voltage regulator, I would still have some power to the bike off the battery? I picked up a multimeter and some fuses at lunch today and will check it out later tonight.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
I did a quick check with the multimeter and I have power at the 40 amp fuse location; which based on the wiring diagram suggests the 15amp fuse is fine (if I am reading it right).
I'm not much for reading wiring diagrams, but if I have power at the 40amp fuse location, why wouldn't I have any power anywhere else on the bike (not even security system blinking)?
I'm not much for reading wiring diagrams, but if I have power at the 40amp fuse location, why wouldn't I have any power anywhere else on the bike (not even security system blinking)?
Road Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 899
Likes: 10
Once you get that multimeter fired up the first thing I'd do is pull the console and start your testing at the ignition switch. Turn on the ignition, set your multimeter to the closet value above 12 volts, and with that schematic posted upboard you should be able see if you're getting power in the right places. I believe all the modern ignition switches are solid state nowadays so it's not impossible to burn one out.
Edit - I was posting the same time your were, but go ahead and test that ignition switch now. If there's no power there at all the problem will be most likely in the wiring between the fuses and the switch. If there's power to one of the tabs on the switch, but not any of the other tabs (with the ignition on) the problem's in the switch itself.
Edit - I was posting the same time your were, but go ahead and test that ignition switch now. If there's no power there at all the problem will be most likely in the wiring between the fuses and the switch. If there's power to one of the tabs on the switch, but not any of the other tabs (with the ignition on) the problem's in the switch itself.
Last edited by NickD; Nov 11, 2010 at 05:41 PM.
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Cruiser
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 221
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From: Fairfax, VA
Sigh. I fixed it.
So, after figuring out there was power to the 40amp fuse and reading your post NickD (thank you for your thoughtful help); I was standing there thinking there is no freaking way I am qualified to take apart the console without f'ing up something else. I went back to the battery and for whatever reason, I was thinking that it had to be a grounding issue.
I pulled the battery out thinking maybe I had crossed something and as I did so, felt a thick wire tucked in behind the battery - as I pulled it out, it appeared much like the positive wire on the other side.
Doh!
What I had done was when I inserted the new battery for the first time I missed that I had inadvertently pushed the grounding wire FOR THE BIKE in behind the battery itself and attached the negative wire for the battery conditioner only.
Pull it all out, reinsert battery, attach all cables and, presto..... power.
Now thank God I didnt pay to have it towed to the dealer only to find this out. Nick and Rmatt (and anyone else) who helped out - Thanks. I'd buy a round and endure all the jokes that would be thrown my way.
So, after figuring out there was power to the 40amp fuse and reading your post NickD (thank you for your thoughtful help); I was standing there thinking there is no freaking way I am qualified to take apart the console without f'ing up something else. I went back to the battery and for whatever reason, I was thinking that it had to be a grounding issue.
I pulled the battery out thinking maybe I had crossed something and as I did so, felt a thick wire tucked in behind the battery - as I pulled it out, it appeared much like the positive wire on the other side.
Doh!
What I had done was when I inserted the new battery for the first time I missed that I had inadvertently pushed the grounding wire FOR THE BIKE in behind the battery itself and attached the negative wire for the battery conditioner only.
Pull it all out, reinsert battery, attach all cables and, presto..... power.
Now thank God I didnt pay to have it towed to the dealer only to find this out. Nick and Rmatt (and anyone else) who helped out - Thanks. I'd buy a round and endure all the jokes that would be thrown my way.
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Joined: Nov 2007
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From: Beautiful Downtown Burbank
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