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And last but not least.........don't force a bolt into a hole, if it gets hard to ratchet, chances are somethings not right. I understand cross threading happens but it can be avoided by taking ones time.
Torque specs are your friends and exist for a reason! Just wait till you crossthresd an exhaust stud and snap it off in the head and then you'll learn! Lol worked for me!
My shift lever has a through hole and the threads also appear to be fully through, so I would make sure there is no debris in the lever threaded hole, get a thread chaser or roll tap which will help reform what threads are left, not cut them. Run it through the opposite end and then check the condition of the threads, if at least half the threads are still there then get a slightly longer bolt to engage the threads further down. You can always just drill the threads out, use a longer bolt, run it all the way through and use an acorn style nut on the end with a little blue lock tight and you should be good to go.
CB
Last edited by NoLongerAmember; Nov 18, 2010 at 02:38 PM.
Thanks for all the advice guys. Turns out I didn't have the shift arm pushed all the way onto the peg with the teeth that holds it in place, so when the bolt should have been in that smooth groove it was actually grinding on the teeth. The threads on the actual shift arm were unscathed, so I got a new bolt, made sure the shift arm was set back all the way on the peg and all is well. (hope all that made sense)
Didn't read the whole thread,, so don't beat me up for repeating,,,, if I was you, I would take the shifter lever down to a close machine shop, tell them what ya did. Someone can drill it, run a tap down it, and you're back in business. take all of 5 minutes.
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