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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I was frustrated with the HD manual method of setting my rear alignment so I came up with these simple cheap items to make it easier, and more exact. I have a written explanation of the items and how I used them in my Tools and Tips album, just go to my profile at https://www.hdforums.com/forum/membe...reference.html
No thanks on that. Mud has helped me before and he is an Ace of mechanic stuff. But making a tool like his is way more work than my few cheap items and I don't see how it would work any better.
Even better and even cheaper.
I looked at MUD's tool (which is neat like everything he does) so I figured the axle nuts must have the same flared diameter. So after I had gotten alignment dead on with the magnet method to center of nuts, I then checked the distance on each side from alignment hole to outer circumference of the axle nuts. They are exactly the same dia on each side so you can just use anything to measure them. I now use a brass welding rod with a plastic tie cut to a point I can stick in the alignment hole.
Seems like this is the method H.D. should have illustrated. It's a straight measurement.
I use the two pieces of wire coathanger also - one for each side - the 90 degree bend goes into the little alignment hold and the end of the straight end indicates the center of the axle nut (one for each side). No fuss, no muss.
I never could get a perfect 90% bend on that method, although I was doing it with a 1/8" welding rod that was stiffer. A coat hange might have been easier to control.
But in any case I have found (at least on my Dyna) that the dia. of the axle flare nuts are identical so you don't need a bend, just measure straight from the hole to the outermost edge of the nut flare.
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