I'm tired of that frame neck switch. It has a tendency to lock up at times and not allow me to turn it at all. For some time I have been considering just installing a toggle switch for the power feed to the ignition switch.

Is there any reason why I can't just cut the 12V supply going to the ingition switch, solder two 2ft long wires to the just severed wires and run them to a simple on/off toggle switch?

I was thinking about mounting the toggle (or rocker) switch behind or in front of the horn. I'll be reaching down there anyway to press the compression releases, so having the ignition power override switch next to them will also help to remind me to push those comp releases in.

Now I can just leave the frame neck switch turned to "RUN" and use the toggle as the "off". I can always use the key to lock the forks or to use that "ACC" function, but the key will actually never really needed for anything else.

By filing off the key's little protruding nub it can be withdrawn from the ignition switch in the "RUN" or any other position and pocketed. My fob will remain pocketed, so nobody will be able to start it even if they know of my hidden switch.

The advantages that I see are easier tank removal, less dash clutter (by not relocating it to the console), only one key needed for ignition and fork locking and less chance for corroded ignition terminals.

I really like the looks of some of the console mounted switches that I've seen on here, but my console is already hard to reinstall due to all the other added wiring and plugs beneath it from other mods that I have done.

Is there any reason that this won't work?

 

It should work fine. I would make sure the switch is weather proof. You should be able to find some at a marine supply store.

 

You can also wire it with the one on the steering neck. Since you can remove the key once you modify it you can just leave it on all the time. If you need additional security you can turn the factory switch off or as you stated lock the steering. No reason to bypass the switch, just wire it in series.

 

Yup, that's exactly what I had in mind. The marine switch sounds like a good idea, too.

 

Please post some pics if you do this, I too am tired of the key switch and want to eliminate turning the key on and off all the time.

 

Hey, Hemi! How do you like your floorboards on your forward controls? I did that about 2 years ago and would never go back! Love mine! I drilled out the brake side to accommodate the large brake pedal and installed the heel toe shifter on the other side. Didn't mean to change the subject, but I noticed you had them!

 

Why can't the right handlebar stop switch just be used instead of wiring in a separate toggle switch to remove the battery b+ power to the ignition key switch? Isn't that just what the engine stop switch does, ie remove power to the neck key switch?

GGP

 

I really like them. Now my feet don't try to fly off the pegs at high speeds and I can move my feet around a bit. No more stabbing for the pegs when I take off, either.

 

Last year I put a toggle switch in like this. Cut the power line to the ignition and ran new wires to under my seat where I mounted the toggle. Grinded the nub off my key too. Has worked great so far and I absolutely do not miss that stupid neck switch.

 

.
.
........here's one testimonial........................
.
.
.