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I agree with HD Street Bob, the end-of-season oil may contain moisture that has been sitting in the case all winter. Because of this, I like to change the oil before storing the bike, and fill it up with new oil and DON'T start it until the spring. Starting a bike or car and letting it idle for a few minutes here and there only allows the humidity and ambient moisture to collect in the oil. You see it when you first start up a bike or car on cold days.. all that steam puffing out of the pipes is the unburnt moisture in the air being pumped through your engine and exhaust. Once the vehicle is hot, that vapor leaves the pipes before condensing, and the water is removed from the oil. Eventually, that moisture can corrode innards, and the combustion by-products help the oil become acidic and corrosive, and that's why it needs to be changed. Synthetics stand up to the moisture and resist becoming corrosive better than organics, and reducing friction and heat is a nice bonus.
I am curious on this topic. Now i picked up my 11 glide in Oct last year. Drove it for about 700 miles before the winter. Am i supposed to be changing out the oil before the riding season. I planned on fluid change at my 1k service at the stealership. Should i be changing the oil before that?
I always put on a 100 miles or so after winter storage,,loosens up the crud ,,benn doing it with everything I owened (motorcycles,lawn mowers, atv's, etc.) for the last 30 years or so,,never a problem,,
Wow....you put 100 miles on your lawn mower before changing the oil???? I don't think I put 100 miles on my lawnmower in an entire season.
I change my oil in Fall right before storage..normally I ride during warm days in the Winter (not this year) but I always start it in March once to make sure it starts before I want to ride it. Nothing worse than waiting until that first sunny 65 degree day and the bike won't start.
oestek is correct. Exhaust soot and unburned hydrocarbons combine with water to form an acid. Steel is more impervious to the acid than aluminum but it still eats away. Aluminum just turns to white powder and without a binder (paint) it will just blow away. I have seen aluminum that looked solid as a rock because it was painted that you could put your hand through. That's why I thought it better to drain my cold oil than run the acid through out the motor.
I followed Harley's recommendation and left the original oil in for 1000 miles and now wish I hadn't as it should have been changed at 500 miles then again at 1000 miles. Clean oil is the key to long engine life.
I am curious on this topic. Now i picked up my 11 glide in Oct last year. Drove it for about 700 miles before the winter. Am i supposed to be changing out the oil before the riding season. I planned on fluid change at my 1k service at the stealership. Should i be changing the oil before that?
Just ride it untill you get your miles for the oilchange and it will be fine. As for putting it away next winter change the oil before storring it. That way you don't have any moisture and acidic contamination of the oil.
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