which oil is better synthetic or regular oil

 

synthetic... duhhh

 

Well, you'll hear a ton about mc oil here. not only which is better but which synth is better, don't use synth in the primary, etc
If I where you I would search the forums for info on oil. It's all been talked about before.
Me, I use SE synth3 in all 3 holes without any slippage.

 

i use the hd oil, have had no problems. I may try the synthetic stuff, I'm noy sure.

 

Synthetic oil is very good.

Syn3 is not a true synthetic, though. It is "built" from dinosaur oil.

I agree, do a search on the topic, then you can really be confused.

 

Here's a little info on bike oil use...


More Than You Ever Wanted to Know About Motor Oil
Performance and Technical information about engine motor oil for your high performance motorcycle.

Choosing the best motor oil is a topic that comes up frequently in discussions between motor-heads, whether they are talking about motorcycles or cars. The following article is intended to help you make a choice based on more than the advertising hype.
This article was originally written by Ed Hackett. Full credit goes to Mr. Hackett for this article.

The Motorcycle Performance Guide staff firmly believes in synthetic motor oils. The information contained in this paper helps explain why differences are seen between conventional motor oils and the synthetic oils. One of the most noticeable, is the ability of synthetic oils to maintain higher oil pressure at high air temperatures at an idle in stop and go traffic. While engines with roller bearing like the Harley engine are more oil volume dependent than pressure dependent, with very low oil pressure the volume of oil may also be low. Even very high quality convention oils like the H-D oil will break down on a 85 degree day idling through traffic. Does the traffic ever slow down at Daytona or Sturgis? I prefer the safety of synthetic oil.

We apologize for changes made to the original article. Additional comments from Bike Tech have been added based upon our additional experience in using various products.

Oil companies provide data on their oils most often referred to as "typical inspection data". This is an average of the actual physical and a few common chemical properties of their oils. This information is available to the public through their distributors or by writing or calling the company directly. I have compiled a list of the most popular, premium oils so that a ready comparison can be made. If your favorite oil is not on the list get the data from the distributor and use what I have as a data base. This article is going to look at six of the most important properties of a motor oil readily available to the public: viscosity, viscosity index (VI), flash point, pour point, % sulfated ash, and % zinc. Viscosity is the measure of how thick an oil is. This is the most important property for an engine. An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and loose film strength at high temperatures. An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm. The weights given on oils are arbitrary numbers assigned by the S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers). These numbers correspond to "real" viscosity, as measured by several accepted techniques. These measurements are taken at specific temperatures. Oils that fall into a certain range are designated 5, 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 by the S.A.E. The W means the oil meets specifications for viscosity at 0 F and is therefore suitable for Winter use. The following chart shows the relationship of "real" viscosity to their S.A.E. assigned numbers. The relationship of gear oils to engine oils is also shown.

__________________________________________________ _____________
| |
| SAE Gear Viscosity Number |
| __________________________________________________ ______ |
| |75W |80W |85W| 90 | 140 | |
| |____|_____|___|______________|___________________ _____| |
| |
| SAE Crank Case Viscosity Number |
| ____________________________ |
| |10| 20 | 30 | 40 | 50 | |
| |__|_____|____|_____|______| |
__________________________________________________ ____________
2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30 32 34 36 38 40 42

 

Just pick an oil rated for your application, a decent filter and change it when it needs it. You likely will never wear out your motorcycle. Forget the opinions of others and deciphering the technical mumbo jumbo.

I run dino in both of my bikes. One has 64k. The other had 52k. Neither needs oil added between changes or smokes. It works for me.

 

Errr... I thought was giving him that info...LOL Just for grins any 20-50 oil changed at 2000-2500 miles would work...but, that also depends on how and were you ride...

 

I run Pennzoil 20W-50 in one of mine. That's all she's had poured in her for 30 years.

 

Actually... Castrol 20-50 (caster bean)dino..LOL... In all my bikes including race engines.. D#*m.. I used to get it free too... and it's all I'll ever use... I'm sure I'll get slammmed for that statement....LOL