When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Changed the oil and filter for the first time on the 09 Dyna. I bought it a month ago with only 678 miles on it. This is the first time oil and filter change since new. Drained the oil last night and put the oil change funnel under the filter. I poked 2 holes in the filter and let it drain all night. Today I went to remove the original filter with my Craftsman 3 fingered tool and the place where the ratchet went was broken. As my luck would have it, Sears did not have another one in stock and would have to order it. I thought I would try a Fram filter wrench that I had purchased but never used. No luck too big. Went to Wallyworld and bought a filter cap wrench. All it would do was spin on the filter. Went to Azone and bought a 3 fingered wrench like the Craftsman one I originally had. It would not lock on to the filter and only slipped as well.
Finally took off the regulator so I could get to the filter with large pipe pliers. I got it to spin about 1 round and now it would spin with my hand. Once I got it off I hd the choice of a Mobil1 black filter I had or a K&N Chrome I had puchased. Because of the nut welded to the end of the K&N, I put it on and will take the Mobil1 filter back and exchange for a K&N Chrome.
I had only read tales of people having problems getting that original filter off of the machine and thought it can't be that hard. I was just before driving a screwdriver thru the filter to be able to turn it but didnt want any oil on the engine block. The filter funnel works great and was well worth the $20 I paid for it. New K&N and new Mobil1 V-Twin 20W50 in the engine. Now to get to the primary and Tranny fluid changes. Got Mobil1 75W90 Gear Oil for the tranny and Mobil1 Racing 4T 10w40 for the primary.
I carried all of the filter wrenches back and got a refund. Their wrenches work just not in my situation. I think when Sears gets my new one in to replace the broke one that I might just get my money back on it as well. I don't need them on the K&N filter.
The HF yellow mc jack sure did come in handy when working on the filter and then when detailing around the filter to make sre it was all clean.
My bike and I now belong together as we have exchanged fluids.
From: PacNW; Beacon of Conservatism in a Sea of Liberals.......AZ Snowbird; Just another Conservative
+1 on the K & N's with 17-mm hex to get a ratchet/socket on. Before that, I used a cap wrench that my Schucks (O'Reilly) sells, made of dark gray composite, it's the #5 or #7 (don't remember which, they sell several sizes). It worked better on the Dyna; could kinda squeeze it past the Crank Sensor, but on the Road King, I had to remove the Sensor...no more.
Did you use the Harley oil change funnel or something else? With the two holes and what you used was there any leftover mess when you took the filter off?
The oil filter tool costs $10 on eBay, you need something to clear the crank sensor. Sorry, I'm not a fan of the ugly k+n filter with hex head lol. I also bought a screw in type long funnel, no more messy fill!
I use a Purolator Pure One filter on my bike. I use them on everything else, might as well use it on the bike. (Yes, I checked that the check valve and all was the same PSI requirements and all.) I like that it is textured to grip easily to remove. As far as mess, I just spray it down with degreaser and hose it off.
Just clean the filter and spray the strap with some brake cleaner so it gets a little more grip. It takes some patience, but it always works and I never have to remove anything else.
I was done with all the cap filter wrenches a long time ago. A strap wrench with either a rubber strap or a fiber/cloth belt ALWAYS gets the filter off without much effort. I prefer the fiber/cloth ones because they fit on the end of a ratchet and are never a hassle to use.
If you had punched a screwdriver through the filter body, you could have made a mess plus it still might have been impossible to get the filter off that way. I had one that tight years ago and did the screwdriver trick to it...Had to tear all the filter body off to get to the base plate of the filter and then beat it off the mount with a piece of rebar...Never again.
I use a Purolator Pure One filter on my bike. I use them on everything else, might as well use it on the bike. (Yes, I checked that the check valve and all was the same PSI requirements and all.) I like that it is textured to grip easily to remove. As far as mess, I just spray it down with degreaser and hose it off.
Good post and thank you...do you have the Purolator PN...I use them too and would like to run them on my FB! Not too proud of the color tho...but what the hell!
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Slideshow: The bar-and-shield logo shows up on far more than motorcycles, some of the company's most unexpected products have nothing to do with riding.
Slideshow: From the troubled AMF years to modern misfires, these bikes earned reputations for reliability issues, questionable engineering, or disappointing performance.
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Slideshow: The Swiss custom shop has taken a Harley Softail and stretched it into something so long and low that it looks closer to a rolling sculpture than a conventional motorcycle.
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Slideshow: A standard cruiser becomes an intricate metal canvas in the hands of a Swiss custom house known for pushing Harley-Davidson platforms far beyond their factory brief.
Slideshow: Harley-Davidson's challenges aren't abstract; they show up in dropping shipments, shrinking dealer traffic, and strategic decisions that aren't yet translating into growth.