Put a voltmeter on the battery terminals and measure the static voltage (should be ~12 vdc, minimum), the voltage while you are cranking (should be ~9-10 vdc), and the charge voltage immediately after cranking (~13.5 - 14.5 vdc, minimum).

Come back with these numbers and someone here will be able to answer your question.

 

Pulled the battery out of the bike and took it inside to hook up to the trickle charger. I measure the voltage on the battery just before hooking it up, it read 12.63v. I didn't get a reading for the cranking or the running, because I need it to be charged up enough to start the bike. Will get everything when it is back on the bike tomorrow morning.

 

12.63 is over 75% charged up.

 

Without a load, the percentage of charge cannot be accurately determined.

If the voltage can maintain around 10 vdc or better while cranking and does not drop dramatically, then the battery capacity is probably good, and if the charging voltage immediately after cranking is around 14 vdc, then the charging system is working. I have seen cranking voltage drop and hold at around 9 vdc and still crank on normally aspirated engines but that is really pushing the minimum limit and maybe too low for an EFI engine. A newer battery will usually hold at around 11 vdc for a few cranking cycles. The charging voltage should be at least 1.5 vdc above the battery's static voltage reading.

 

If he read the battery voltage as 12.63 it is over 75% charged. Now that doesn't mean it can pass a load test and is why you conduct a load test even though the battery voltage may show it is fully charged.

My last battery I got for a damn good price through Advance Auto using a code online. It didn't last a year and the bike was having starting problems and the battery wouldn't stay charged up for more than a week sitting in the garage. I had it tested twice at Advance and 1 time at the Harley dealer and they all said it tested out ok.
I finally had enough and took it in to the dealer for them to figure out what the problem was. They couldn't get it to have a problem starting for a week and told me to come pick it up. When I went to pick it up they couldn't get it to start. Finally they were experiencing what I did. They put a new HD battery in and it started right up. They just charged me for the battery after that and I haven't had a problem since.
Moral of the story: The battery tests aren't always telling you the real story either.

 

My old (almost 6 years old) show good charged voltage and passed the Autozone cold cranking test on their fancy machine. It still had a first crank grunt before it started cranking good and after a few more months motor started kicking back and making the compensator /starter clutch bang. New battery fixed all my problem. That is why I say charge it good and then if it still acts a little weak replace it. Simple obivious stuff first.

 

So here are my numbers.
When I took the battery off the bike I had an reading of 12.63v (bike would not start as noted in OP)
When I took the battery of the tender (over night charge) I get a reading of 13.27v.
Hooked it up to the bike and made sure my connection was nice and tight and clean, had a reading of 13.15v
When I turned the key on the number started to drop steadily, pushed the start button when it read 12.6v and it started right up, not hesitation.
I didn't have the best connection of the meter when starting it up, but the numbers flickered around, I saw a 7.?, a 9.? and an 11.?.
When the bike was running the reading was 14.3v steady and when I rev'd it up it read 14.35v steady.

I am guessing between the flickering reading and how the reading steadily was dropping with the key on means that I should replace the battery soon.

 

I may be a FNG when it comes to the specifics of wrench turning on Harley Davidson motorcycles, but I was an Aviation Electrician's Mate in the Navy for almost 9 years and have over 20 years experience in general aviation. I have had many formal classroom hours and a lifetime of experience dealing with automotive electrical and electronic systems, including all types of automotive batteries and charging systems. Cars, trucks, airplanes, boats, motorcycles...they are all basically the same with the HD electrical charging system being a very simple system...

It is mathematically impossible to accurately determine the state of charge of a lead-acid battery unless it is under a load. The charge percentage is the mathematical relationship between voltage potential and current delivered under a given load. It is all about Ohm's Law...A lead-acid battery may read full voltage and appear to be fully charged even though it no longer has the capacity to deliver full current.

When the starter is initially engaged, the inrush of current into the starter represents a direct short to the battery and this is when the battery voltage reads lowest. As the starter turns, its resistance seen at the battery increases thus decreasing the current demand which in turn increases the measured voltage at the battery. The voltage read at the battery increases along a curve. This is the, "flickering," you noticed using a digital volt meter and is normal. With an analog meter, you will not see the flickering, only the average and the indicator will show a steady increase until the charging system voltage is higher than the battery voltage which causes the reading to suddenly jump to the higher charging system voltage....

That your battery dropped to 7 vdc on the initial inrush surge and the start cycle dragged after a full deep overnight charge suggests that your battery is weak. 7 vdc is too low for your electronic firing system and fuel injection system to work properly. As the starter turns and the system voltage increases, these systems start working and the engine starts. With a weak battery, if you are taking short 20-30 minute trips then your battery may not get fully recharged. In time, the cranking problem will only get worse until the battery can no longer maintain enough current to crank the engine over, let alone start, even if it reads 12.63 vdc static. Sounds to me like it is time for a new battery.

 

Cool, I was an ET in the Navy.

The 13.27v reading is due to a surface charge right after charging your battery. After it sits a few hours or so the voltage reading should be more accurate.

Your situation sounds similar to mine did blueangel73, I agree you more than likely need a new battery.
Let us know how it goes.

 

My diagnostic manual says the battery should not drop below 9.6 volts..so your battery is pretty worn out. Mine appeared to be doing OK with a 8.9 or so but it did not do it long and probably only because I was nursing it along with the maintenance charger