Hey Mudpuddle
Book says 26.6, then adjust to 4.4 inches. It took me two bottles, a full 32 ounces to get around 4.4 inches from top of tube to oil level.
Was your experience similar???
How much fork oil did your tubes take???
Book says 26.6, then adjust to 4.4 inches. It took me two bottles, a full 32 ounces to get around 4.4 inches from top of tube to oil level.
Was your experience similar???
I was thinkin what the fork??
Seem to remember my service manual calling for more oil
in the "other dyna models".
I knew then that sumthin warnt right.
Went with the 4.4" method.
All seems fine.
So, I take you have the long forks on now.
mud
My indy told me something yesterday, don't know if it's true or not, but makes sense. He said that the oil fill in ounces in the service manual is really the "wet" fill. He says that is the correct amount of oil for a drain and refill, whereas, in our case, it has been completely disassembled, so takes more oil, due to the fact that NONE is remaining in any little pockets, ect. Don't know about his analysis, but I filled it to the 4.4 anyhow, and it took right at 32 ounces.
What did you use for a seal driver?? I made one out of a piece of PVC. Worked great, and the plastic won't hurt anything.
Also, had a hell of a time getting the screw out of the bottom of the fork tube. Good impact was indispensable for this project.
Other than that, pretty damned simple. First tube probably took a couple hours, second tube, more like thirty minutes.
Bike rides and handles great. Pushed it pretty hard in the twisties yesterday, and had it to 105 without any poor handling exhibited. Not nearly as easy to drag the pegs now. Would really take some skill to get them on the asphalt in a parking lot. In the past I have routinely dragged the pegs all over parking lots, but not now.
Love the new stance. Feels more like some of the rides from my past.

Long forks indeed, and as you said, all is well, so I suppose the oil level must have been correct.
My indy told me something yesterday, don't know if it's true or not, but makes sense.
He said that the oil fill in ounces in the service manual is really the "wet" fill.
He says that is the correct amount of oil for a drain and refill, whereas,
in our case, it has been completely disassembled, so takes more oil,
due to the fact that NONE is remaining in any little pockets, ect.
Don't know about his analysis, but I filled it to the 4.4 anyhow, and it took right at 32 ounces.
What did you use for a seal driver?? I made one out of a piece of PVC.
Worked great, and the plastic won't hurt anything.
Also, had a hell of a time getting the screw out of the bottom of the fork tube.
Good impact was indispensable for this project.
Other than that, pretty damned simple.
First tube probably took a couple hours, second tube, more like thirty minutes.
Bike rides and handles great. Pushed it pretty hard in the twisties yesterday,
and had it to 105 without any poor handling exhibited.
Not nearly as easy to drag the pegs now.
Would really take some skill to get them on the asphalt in a parking lot.
In the past I have routinely dragged the pegs all over parking lots, but not now.
Love the new stance. Feels more like some of the rides from my past.
Is that the stock speedo??
"wet" fill theory makes sense to me.
Although I don't see where it really applies,
as HD has no provision for us to drain w/o dumping upside down.
Yep, I used 2" PVC as a driver. Just right.
And yeah my bottom pipes screws acted like they did not want to let go.
Had to get violent. Beat the shot out of em, relentlessly,
before they cried uncle andlet go.
Last time I had to hit anything that hard, smoke came outta their ***,
and I seen stars orbiting around their head.
How's your 95 build workin out??
What kinda pipes ya runnin there??
mud


The pipes are python 2-1's, (V&H). They have already seen asphalt. My pegs used to be the feelers, with the new, higher stance in the front, the pipe is now the feeler. The 95 inch build is currently at approximately 91 hp, 94 torque. That is on a very conservative dyno, at 83 degrees. SAE 5 smoothing, correct tire pressure, no funky stuff. The real deal. My before run on the exact same dyno was 67/70, so I have achieved a quite considerable gain.
It is very rideable as well. A tad bit lumpy at low speeds in parking lots and such, due to the cams, but not bothersome at all. I'm quite happy with the bike and the build. Street friendly, but with lots of extra smiles. The thundermax system is hands down the best thing I've done for the way the bike runs. That system is the ****. The way it should have been from the factory.
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The tach mount is a cnc machined aluminum custom job that a guy is making out in california.
I bought it off of fleabay.
Good work on the SuperGlide handlebar/instrument issue.
Think they helped out on the dyno #s??
I've been leaning towards the DandD FatCats.
Gotta decide soon.
A tad bit lumpy at low speeds in parking lots and such,
due to the cams, but not bothersome at all.
Which cams did you go with??
hat is on a very conservative dyno, at 83 degrees.
SAE 5 smoothing, correct tire pressure, no funky stuff. The real deal.
My before run on the exact same dyno was 67/70, so I have achieved a quite considerable gain.
Who did your heads??
mud
It is the original speedo, but it is in a riser that came off of a wrecked sportster custom. The tach mount is a cnc machined aluminum custom job that a guy is making out in california. I bought it off of fleabay.
The pipes are python 2-1's, (V&H). They have already seen asphalt. My pegs used to be the feelers, with the new, higher stance in the front, the pipe is now the feeler. The 95 inch build is currently at approximately 91 hp, 94 torque. That is on a very conservative dyno, at 83 degrees. SAE 5 smoothing, correct tire pressure, no funky stuff. The real deal. My before run on the exact same dyno was 67/70, so I have achieved a quite considerable gain.
It is very rideable as well. A tad bit lumpy at low speeds in parking lots and such, due to the cams, but not bothersome at all. I'm quite happy with the bike and the build. Street friendly, but with lots of extra smiles. The thundermax system is hands down the best thing I've done for the way the bike runs. That system is the ****. The way it should have been from the factory.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
Take care,
-Dan
Those pipes are sold under the Python name, and I got them from AMERICAN-CLASSIC-MOTORS ebay store. They had the best price.
Went with the 211 cams. I did quite a bit of research, and eventually chose them based on opinions from my head man here in town. He runs a full performance shop, not just a head shop, and is very knowledgable. He did a heck of a job IMO. He has a flow bench, so it wasn't just a try this and see if it works deal. He flowed the heads before and after, and besides just porting and polishing, he balanced the flow of the heads as well. We saw huge increases on the bench. I think the head work cost me around 340 dollars. The heads were beyond crappy stock. In addition to being stuffed, they were terribly out of balance, and even the springs were all out of balance. He fixed that for me as well.
ThunderMax. In a nutshell, it is a complete replacement ECM which does NOT rely on air flow for it's information. Even slightly radical cams wreak absolute havoc on engine control systems which rely on air flow for engine information. This system solves that problem, as well as many others. I have seen absolutely nothing that can do what this system does, but you'll have to do your own reasearch, and make your own decisions about it. Read all about it here. http://www.thunder-max.com/Default.aspx




