Hey Mudpuddle
Now did you guys change the fork springs? Or just go to a heavy weight fork oil. I've heard that the SE Fork Oil is 20W and is somewhat too heavy and that a 15W oil would be the best. You know, a standard Dyna has that dive problem on braking. I was thinking about just changing the oil, but without a drain, probably best to remove the springs and put in a set of Progressives. What's your opinion on this? Did either of you drill and tap the lower leg for a drain plug while you had them off?
Psycho, like the tach arrangement? Is the speedo the sportster setup? I think I read in another post your setup for connecting the RPM gage.
Psycho, like the tach arrangement? Is the speedo the sportster setup? I think I read in another post your setup for connecting the RPM gage.
Thanx for the info psych.
Good to hear that things are working out well for you.
The cams, you're gettin some pretty nice #s there on the dyno.
I'm gettin real close to pullin the trigger on my motor work.
Considering the .570 lift GD bumpsticks. Dunno yet.
ThunderMax sounds interesting, gonna research that. Sounds easy.
Like my SERT a lot.
mud
Good to hear that things are working out well for you.
The cams, you're gettin some pretty nice #s there on the dyno.
I'm gettin real close to pullin the trigger on my motor work.
Considering the .570 lift GD bumpsticks. Dunno yet.
ThunderMax sounds interesting, gonna research that. Sounds easy.
Like my SERT a lot.
mud
ORIGINAL: Psycho
Popular opinion seems to hold that the 2 into 1's build the most power, to the tune of a 3 to 5 horsepower increase. I bought them at the advice of my dyno guy, who swears the he has personally confirmed that a good 2 into 1 was worth that increase on virtually every bike he had put them on. He is also the one that recommended the V&H product. He says they've been doing it longer than anybody, and somehow got it right. Like I said, I got those pipes based on common knowledge and his recommendation, so you will have to do your own research. As far as the sound, I really like it. It's a good deep rumble, no tinny crap, no banging or clanging, absolutely zero decel pop, just a good throaty growl down when decelerating from a pretty good twist. It sounds as mean deceling, as it does under throttle.
Those pipes are sold under the Python name, and I got them from AMERICAN-CLASSIC-MOTORS ebay store. They had the best price.
Went with the 211 cams. I did quite a bit of research, and eventually chose them based on opinions from my head man here in town. He runs a full performance shop, not just a head shop, and is very knowledgable. He did a heck of a job IMO. He has a flow bench, so it wasn't just a try this and see if it works deal. He flowed the heads before and after, and besides just porting and polishing, he balanced the flow of the heads as well. We saw huge increases on the bench. I think the head work cost me around 340 dollars. The heads were beyond crappy stock. In addition to being stuffed, they were terribly out of balance, and even the springs were all out of balance. He fixed that for me as well.
ThunderMax. In a nutshell, it is a complete replacement ECM which does NOT rely on air flow for it's information. Even slightly radical cams wreak absolute havoc on engine control systems which rely on air flow for engine information. This system solves that problem, as well as many others. I have seen absolutely nothing that can do what this system does, but you'll have to do your own reasearch, and make your own decisions about it. Read all about it here. http://www.thunder-max.com/Default.aspx
Popular opinion seems to hold that the 2 into 1's build the most power, to the tune of a 3 to 5 horsepower increase. I bought them at the advice of my dyno guy, who swears the he has personally confirmed that a good 2 into 1 was worth that increase on virtually every bike he had put them on. He is also the one that recommended the V&H product. He says they've been doing it longer than anybody, and somehow got it right. Like I said, I got those pipes based on common knowledge and his recommendation, so you will have to do your own research. As far as the sound, I really like it. It's a good deep rumble, no tinny crap, no banging or clanging, absolutely zero decel pop, just a good throaty growl down when decelerating from a pretty good twist. It sounds as mean deceling, as it does under throttle.
Those pipes are sold under the Python name, and I got them from AMERICAN-CLASSIC-MOTORS ebay store. They had the best price.
Went with the 211 cams. I did quite a bit of research, and eventually chose them based on opinions from my head man here in town. He runs a full performance shop, not just a head shop, and is very knowledgable. He did a heck of a job IMO. He has a flow bench, so it wasn't just a try this and see if it works deal. He flowed the heads before and after, and besides just porting and polishing, he balanced the flow of the heads as well. We saw huge increases on the bench. I think the head work cost me around 340 dollars. The heads were beyond crappy stock. In addition to being stuffed, they were terribly out of balance, and even the springs were all out of balance. He fixed that for me as well.
ThunderMax. In a nutshell, it is a complete replacement ECM which does NOT rely on air flow for it's information. Even slightly radical cams wreak absolute havoc on engine control systems which rely on air flow for engine information. This system solves that problem, as well as many others. I have seen absolutely nothing that can do what this system does, but you'll have to do your own reasearch, and make your own decisions about it. Read all about it here. http://www.thunder-max.com/Default.aspx
stanf, I'm currently runnin with the stock WG springs.
Went to a heavier oil.
Works real good for now.
Gonna redo it all soon when I go to the Dual disc.
I will drill and tap at that time.
Maybe better springs.
Dive is not so bad w/ the heavier oil.
I'm researching the Gold valving racetech, don't think it's offered yet,
probably the vRod parts work?????????????
Went to a heavier oil.
Works real good for now.
Gonna redo it all soon when I go to the Dual disc.
I will drill and tap at that time.
Maybe better springs.
Dive is not so bad w/ the heavier oil.
I'm researching the Gold valving racetech, don't think it's offered yet,
probably the vRod parts work?????????????
ORIGINAL: dlstanf2
Now did you guys change the fork springs? Or just go to a heavy weight fork oil. I've heard that the SE Fork Oil is 20W and is somewhat too heavy and that a 15W oil would be the best. You know, a standard Dyna has that dive problem on braking. I was thinking about just changing the oil, but without a drain, probably best to remove the springs and put in a set of Progressives. What's your opinion on this? Did either of you drill and tap the lower leg for a drain plug while you had them off?
Psycho, like the tach arrangement? Is the speedo the sportster setup? I think I read in another post your setup for connecting the RPM gage.
Now did you guys change the fork springs? Or just go to a heavy weight fork oil. I've heard that the SE Fork Oil is 20W and is somewhat too heavy and that a 15W oil would be the best. You know, a standard Dyna has that dive problem on braking. I was thinking about just changing the oil, but without a drain, probably best to remove the springs and put in a set of Progressives. What's your opinion on this? Did either of you drill and tap the lower leg for a drain plug while you had them off?
Psycho, like the tach arrangement? Is the speedo the sportster setup? I think I read in another post your setup for connecting the RPM gage.
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