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IPB removal having a problem

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Old Dec 11, 2013 | 07:21 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by jgcable
One more question. I read numerous threads on this and many of them ask if they should remove both seals, 1 seal or leave both on. I need to know what both seals means because when I received my bearing from Baker part # 189-56 it came with 1 black seal. I checked online at other stores and all of them picture the package as 1 bearing and 1 seal. In the installation instructions Baker pictures and only mentions 1 bearing and 1 seal. What is this other seal everybody is talking about?

Also... the Baker directions state to remove both snap rings. One internal and one external. My IPB only has 1 snap ring. It was behind the seal that I had to pry off. The other side doesn't have a snap ring unless I am missing something here. My service manual doesn't mention 2 snap rings either. I would have thought it would have both but I only see one.
Just take out the one snap ring in the case, install the Baker bearing in the case as you recieved it, and install the new Baker seal in the case.

Remove the Inner bearing sleeve from the trans shaft and assemble. Thats it.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
One more question. I read numerous threads on this and many of them ask if they should remove both seals, 1 seal or leave both on. I need to know what both seals means because when I received my bearing from Baker part # 189-56 it came with 1 black seal. I checked online at other stores and all of them picture the package as 1 bearing and 1 seal. In the installation instructions Baker pictures and only mentions 1 bearing and 1 seal. What is this other seal everybody is talking about?
I think they're talking about the seals which are integral to the Baker bearing, not the separate seal which goes on the transmission side.
There's been some discussion about whether it's better to remove one or both seals, when one isn't using an open primary, so the bearing is opened up to lubrication from the primary oil; or leave it sealed, in which case it would only be lubed by the original-fill grease.

I haven't seen this question resolved, so maybe it would be good to call Baker and get their latest info.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 06:57 AM
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I wouldn't remove a seal on a sealed bearing. The Baker bearing works just fine the way it was designed.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:10 AM
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Baker suggested to leave them on.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:12 AM
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jgcable, how did the stock bearing look? I know you were concerned about riding it with the factory set up.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:09 AM
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leave the seal
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by PoCoBob
jgcable, how did the stock bearing look? I know you were concerned about riding it with the factory set up.
The bearing was perfect, the race was perfect, the compensator cup/rotor bolts were as tight as could be, the primary chain tensioner was perfect. The bike has 7800 miles on it and it has never given me a single instance of trouble.
It was a difficult decision to take it all apart but for piece of mind I did it. I also wanted to install a chrome inner primary anyway.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jgcable
It was a difficult decision to take it all apart but for piece of mind I did it. .
I hear ya. My mother had an Explorer with those Firestone tires that blew out from time to time. As much as we told her the people who had the problem were way overloaded with under inflated tires she was scared to drive it until Ford replaced the tires. Once you get something in your head it's hard to get it out.

Good luck with your winter project.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 07:49 PM
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Sounds like the OP already got the bearing removed, but for those who have not done the job yet...

Don`t try to beat the bearing out, unless you are looking for an excuse to buy a new inner primary cover...

There is a much easier way, and you don`t need a press.

You need a socket that has an outside diameter slightly smaller than the opening in the inner primary cover, this socket will push the bearing out.

You also need a socket with an outside diameter that is larger than the outside diameter of the bearing that is being removed.

A long bolt, a nut and some washers.

Put the large socket on one side of the opening (the side that had the snap ring), and the smaller socket on the other side, against the bearing.

Install a washer under the head of the bolt, and pass it through both sockets, install the nut on the bolt with a washer, and tighten it down.

When you crank the nut down on the bolt, the small socket will push the bearing out of the case and into the large socket.

No beating, no noise, no problem.
 

Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Dec 12, 2013 at 07:59 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2013 | 08:07 PM
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Necessity is the mother....
 
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