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Lots of discussion and different opinion on this! I did mine with much ease as to buy the race tuner and harness for the laptop and download the software from HD ! http://prosupertuner.harley-davidson...uperTuner.aspx
Download proper setup and recalibrate ..... as simple as that
with my bike, like you down load the map from dyno jet site by matching what you have ....I used map 3, and like you in 1 minute the bike is retuned.. no need for some one too thrash the life out off the bike... here in Australia if your caught 40km over the state limit you loose your liecence straight away and the bike impounded
An experienced dyno operator can spit out just about any numbers they want. Needless to say, the customer is happier and more impressed when they are a good deal higher after the tune.
Sometimes, a little more power can be found by compromising engine safety, like by adding more timing. It works fine until you get a tank of gas where the octane isn't quite up to snuff, or encounter some bad operating conditions.
Last time I had my blown 502 Chevy dyno'd, the operator gave me two sheets. He said, "This one is what your engine really did. This other one is to impress your friends."
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jan 26, 2014 at 06:34 AM.
An experienced dyno operator can spit out just about any numbers they want. Needless to say, the customer is happier and more impressed when they are a good deal higher after the tune.
Sometimes, a little more power can be found by compromising engine safety, like by adding more timing. It works fine until you get a tank of gas where the octane isn't quite up to snuff, or encounter some bad operating conditions.
Last time I had my blown 502 Chevy dyno'd, the operator gave me two sheets. He said, "This one is what your engine really did. This other one is to impress your friends."
you should post those two sheets up, i am curious about the difference of the two. are the curves the same one just higher than the other?
you should post those two sheets up, i am curious about the difference of the two. are the curves the same one just higher than the other?
I don't have the sheets here, but the curves are the same from the start of the pull (at 1500 rpm) till the end of the pull (at 7000 rpm). One is just higher than the other. In this case, the way it was done was to enter a different value when the torque sensor on the dyno was calibrated by attaching a weight on the end of a lever (engine dyno). Let's say the weight is supposed to register 200 ft/lbs. Instead of punching 200 ft/lbs into the program, a different number like 300 can be entered instead.
I don't have the sheets here, but the curves are the same from the start of the pull (at 1500 rpm) till the end of the pull (at 7000 rpm). One is just higher than the other. In this case, the way it was done was to enter a different value when the torque sensor on the dyno was calibrated by attaching a weight on the end of a lever (engine dyno). Let's say the weight is supposed to register 200 ft/lbs. Instead of punching 200 ft/lbs into the program, a different number like 300 can be entered instead.
like I tried saying any dyno operator can trick the customer, yes they have there uses as a tuneing tool if you need too check your fuel mixtures thru the rev range , but for hp readings too many varibles
I don't have the sheets here, but the curves are the same from the start of the pull (at 1500 rpm) till the end of the pull (at 7000 rpm). One is just higher than the other. In this case, the way it was done was to enter a different value when the torque sensor on the dyno was calibrated by attaching a weight on the end of a lever (engine dyno). Let's say the weight is supposed to register 200 ft/lbs. Instead of punching 200 ft/lbs into the program, a different number like 300 can be entered instead.
On a motorcycle dyno, or at least on the dynojet 250i and winpep software that we use, the drum mass is calibrated into the software that you receive with the dyno. The software is specific to your dyno serial number and the drum weight is set at the factory. In our case it's a specific software for the trike add on. This is not something you can just go in and change to inflate your numbers. On our dyno if you tried to run the software from a different dyno the numbers would be extremely low because it's not factoring in the weight of the extra drum. The only way I have seen people try to make their numbers look good is by printing whichever correction factor shows the highest numbers. Obviously that's printed right on the sheet though so they're not fooling too many. Imo only an sae sheet has any credibility. Of course you can over inflate the rear tire and stupid stuff like that but the gains are minimal and you're not proving anything. I run pretty much every tire at 40 psi, check belt tension, condition of wheel bearings, etc before the bike ever hits the dyno.
Personally I have no interest in fooling anybody. This is not my business to run, and it's only a part of my job and one tool that I use. I'm all about learning new ways and the best products to make more power for myself and giving other riders the best I can. I just enjoy playing with bikes.
"Positive results" does NOT equal leaving 5+ peak horsepower on the table.
I picked up 10rwhp and 20rwtq having my car dyno tuned after intake/exhaust mods. And that was an increase from a baseline canned tune.
You can pick up additional HP on a stock car if you have it dyno tuned. Real power isn't seen from replacing exhausts and intakes anyway. They are complementary to real engine mods like cams, and forced induction (FI). It was FI and a good tune that took my car over 500HP, not an exhaust. As for the bike. Of course it will benefit from a tune, just depends on if the money it costs is worth to the owner to get slightly better HP/TQ numbers that will rarely been seen unless he is at WOT.
The only way I have seen people try to make their numbers look good is by printing whichever correction factor shows the highest numbers.
Plenty of other ways, like whether the engine is cool or hot; tweaking inputs relating to air density (and leaving that information off the sheet); entering different rear wheel and tire mass when the software has such provisions. "Before" and "after" pulls don't even need to be the same vehicle.
Not accusing you of doing it, just that it can usually be done by someone who is familiar enough with their dyno setup and software, or has been instructed on how to do it by the dyno manufacturer or salesperson. (That last part came from a former chassis dyno salesman, it helped sales).
Anyway, the original question was whether a tune was needed to prevent damage with the installation of aftermarket exhaust and air cleaner.
Last edited by Warp Factor; Jan 27, 2014 at 05:21 AM.
That was kinda the point. Its typically not even 5HP between tuned and canned. It might be but its more likely to be 2-3.
with stage-1 you will be lucky to find that much extra with a dyno tune over, say, a correct canned map.
Chances are they would have found a few more HP with a dyno tune.
Is there any data suggesting only 2-3hp over a canned tune?
Originally Posted by Warp Factor
It works fine until you get a tank of gas where the octane isn't quite up to snuff, or encounter some bad operating conditions.
Good points but in that circumstance is where knock sensors come into play. Very rarely engines "tune-up" for higher octane, but they always "tune-down" for lower with knock sensors.
Originally Posted by Chaparro78
You can pick up additional HP on a stock car if you have it dyno tuned. Real power isn't seen from replacing exhausts and intakes anyway. They are complementary to real engine mods like cams, and forced induction (FI). It was FI and a good tune that took my car over 500HP, not an exhaust. As for the bike. Of course it will benefit from a tune, just depends on if the money it costs is worth to the owner to get slightly better HP/TQ numbers that will rarely been seen unless he is at WOT.
Yes but what is "real"? My 6.1 SRT-8 on the same dyno progressed from 365 stock, 372 to 385hp/388tq in stages by adding a CAI, cat-back, cooler t-stat and high-flow cats with mufflers and manifold spacers. Then the tuning started....on 91 octane and race gas.
Now on a different dyno my baseline was 389hp/398?tq
That day the tuning took it to 398hp/422 tq
Race gas 413hp/432tq.
So 2-3hp maybe correct over a canned tune, but 5lbs ft tq is also very possible?
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