brake light problem (03 FXDX)
Cruiser
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 163
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
im thinking of bleeding out the front brake then see what happens-the rear brake pedal works and operates the light fine-just the FRONT lever is the problem-not sure if the plunger inside the lever is supposed to be fully extended or not-its constant contact with the plunger-i can put a piece of paper between the plunger and the lever and the light goes off-ill try bleeding and see what happens
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
that may be an idea too although I don't think the front uses a pressure switch like the rear, a friend recently told me that I need to bleed or add and bleed front fluid so that could be contributing
Road Master
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 6
From: bfe
front is a simple open close switch , has nothing to do with pressure
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,180
Likes: 12,755
From: South Carolina
Ok, lets sum up...
The rear brake lamp is working correctly now, right?
What is the issue with the front brake, is the brake light staying on even when the lever is not pulled in? Or is the front brake light switch not working at all?
The rear brake lamp is working correctly now, right?
What is the issue with the front brake, is the brake light staying on even when the lever is not pulled in? Or is the front brake light switch not working at all?
Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
The front brake only works on random (does not stay lit) but here's a BOMB, I started taking inventory of **** going wrong recently, weeks ago I noticed the blue light to indicate 'high beam' does not come on anymore, just yesterday I noticed the fuel gauge stopped working, the horn doesn't work although it did a month ago or so and I'm beside myself, I'd like to say this is all tied together but I'm doubtful, I am so frustrated
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
to be perfectly honest, the rear brake light doesn't work that great, it seems I need to pump the brake several times to get it to come on, but as it comes on, with each brake pedal push the light increases in intensity until it lights as it should (think of a dimmer effect)
the TSSM module was replaced in Sep '13 but that being said, there are times when I push right signal and it goes hazard mode
the horn was a simple fix, the wire was broken, I re-connected and it works again, how it got torn is beyond me
sorry this is turning into much more than a brake light issue but I'm extremely thankful you guys are chiming in
the TSSM module was replaced in Sep '13 but that being said, there are times when I push right signal and it goes hazard mode
the horn was a simple fix, the wire was broken, I re-connected and it works again, how it got torn is beyond me
sorry this is turning into much more than a brake light issue but I'm extremely thankful you guys are chiming in
Last edited by supermanotorious; Mar 28, 2014 at 09:09 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,180
Likes: 12,755
From: South Carolina
Don`t panic, this is simple direct current (only panic when the problem has to do with onboard computerized gizmos 
)
One problem at a time...
Check the front stoplamp switch:
Disconnect the connector to the right hand control switches, read out the switch with your ohmmeter.
One probe to the orange/white wire, the other probe to the red/yellow wire.
If the results are intermittent, disassemble the right hand control and take a look at the switch, make sure the button goes in and out without sticking.
It could be stuck due to crud getting into the housing. Follow the instructions in the service manual.
)One problem at a time...
Check the front stoplamp switch:
Disconnect the connector to the right hand control switches, read out the switch with your ohmmeter.
One probe to the orange/white wire, the other probe to the red/yellow wire.
If the results are intermittent, disassemble the right hand control and take a look at the switch, make sure the button goes in and out without sticking.
It could be stuck due to crud getting into the housing. Follow the instructions in the service manual.
Last edited by Dan89FLSTC; Mar 28, 2014 at 08:41 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
From: Phoenix, AZ
maybe this helps me understand a little better, the O/W wire is the power INCOMING to the switch, the R/Y is 12V out to light correct?