Well I think my main shaft seal on the backside of the primary is leaking. I plan on getting into the motor next year, aiming for around 115-120hp, so obviously a clutch upgrade goes along with that. Since I am pulling the existing clutch off (which doesn't grab for ****) to change this seal I'm thinking of upgrading the clutch now and not need to worry about it next year.

What's the suggestions for good quality clutch setups? I was looking at the SE race clutch hub kit, but I'm sure there's plenty of other options and opinions out there

Also is this a common problem for that seal to be leaking so soon? The bike just crossed 20k, I've had it for 19k of those miles and ride it damn near every day so it's not like the seals are sitting and drying out

Thanks fellas

 

I've been running a Carbonite clutch pack with the OEM spring for around 30,000 carefree miles. I'm pushing 100 HP and 100 Torque and it takes what I give it without slipping or over heating. Just gotta run Synthetic Dextron ATF in it. It launches like a rocket!

 

I hear good things from baker clutch things. You know you'll need a six speed,umm tranny, recablition unit for the bike to pick up the six speed and there is one other thing it's a circle thing that like is a stronger piece that allows the shift or and a shift gear too lol. Its pricey looking at like about 8k- 6k in total

 

I have been looking at clutch options as well.

Rivera Pro Clutch($450), Bandit Sportsman($500), Evolution Industries terminator($500), and SE Race Clutch($300).
Not sure how good the SE unit is but heard great things from the pro clutch and the Evo one looks very great too.

When I did my build i bought extra insurance by getting the SE Compensator to cushion more blows when I hammer it...........that being said the unit can't be run with auto trans fluid and all the above units with the exception of the SE, they like to be run almost dry.....just enough to lube the chain.

Only have 60 miles on my 106" so haven't got on it yet but I running stick clutch and SE heavy spring.

 

http://www.riveraprimoinc.com/html/pro-clutch.html

Has about the same pull as the older bikes had without the soft clutch added.

 

Baker Hi Torque Bearing and seal kit, with a Barnett Scorpion Clutch assembly. That was the setup I have decided on. The stock clutch with the Screamin Eagle spring does pretty good too.

 

Right on boys I appreciate the info I'll do some research on the clutches you recommended. I've been thinking about splitting the cases and welding/ true the crank when I do the motor so the primary would need to come off again anyway. I may end up just doing the SE spring and upgraded discs for now, just to get me thru the season. I'll check out that SE compensator and baker bearing and seal kit.

On another note, I know a few of you have done some motor work. What's your thoughts on weld/ true the crank on 120hp even if the runout is within spec. I know there's no yes/no answer just looking for opinions. Like I said I ride the bike everyday so I'm looking for some miles out of her

 

I was also dead set on the scorpion.. (may still be.. dunno) because I also started looking heavily at the AIM VP92 also as a possible option... heard GREAT things about them.

and if your looking for the 120 hp range motor wise.. I would definitely err on the side of caution and get the crank trued and welded.. run out aside... it'd be just for piece of mind IMO.. if for anything else.. nothing like the whole bottom end shelling or trying to grenade on you during a hole shot or while simply trying to use that kind of power..

 

I've had stock plates and se spring hold 115-120ft lbs many times, that's the best bang for your buck. I ran just a spring on my bike making 130ft lbs for a couple thousand miles but it was pretty wasted when I finally put my Rivera in. Stay away from the se race clutch, it's garbage.

Definitely a good idea to weld that crank up with your goals. A timken conversion would be a good idea too while you're there. If the cases are split you might as well bore them too and go 113 or 117.

 

I think I'm pretty set on doing up the crank, I guess I was just looking for someone to tell me to save my money lol


I had the timken in mind as well.. Guess it's time to start researching and pricing some of this stuff out. 113-117"?! Are you trying to get me killed? Lol. I was gonna try and keep it to around 103-106". I figured with good cams, head work and possible tb I should be able to get to around 115-120hp. What you think? You got a stock welded crank in that beast of yours? That's one of my favorites on here, your bike just looks pissed off, I like it