Need 2012 FXDB signal relo help
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,044
Likes: 336
So let me ask - as I have looked at the directions but have not yet bought the kit.
Is it as simple as cutting the wires by the current turn signals and then pulling out the old wires thru the switch housing/handlebars in the shrink wrap back to the connector in the front of the frame and then running these same wires to the new turn signal location thru a new shrink wrap?
I have opened up the switch housing but I can't see the wires coming from the turn signal as they are blocked by the other electrical buttons (horn/lights/ect) and I'm not at a comfort level to undo the 2 screws that hold the buttons in place and seeing how the wires enter the lower housing and if they are contiguous to the connector in the front end of the frame.
I've done most of my own mods - but not comfortable with electrical - if the other forum member is correct, I'd pay the Dealer $80 to do it
Is it as simple as cutting the wires by the current turn signals and then pulling out the old wires thru the switch housing/handlebars in the shrink wrap back to the connector in the front of the frame and then running these same wires to the new turn signal location thru a new shrink wrap?
I have opened up the switch housing but I can't see the wires coming from the turn signal as they are blocked by the other electrical buttons (horn/lights/ect) and I'm not at a comfort level to undo the 2 screws that hold the buttons in place and seeing how the wires enter the lower housing and if they are contiguous to the connector in the front end of the frame.
I've done most of my own mods - but not comfortable with electrical - if the other forum member is correct, I'd pay the Dealer $80 to do it
Last edited by JMC22; Apr 28, 2014 at 08:05 PM.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
Took me a while to get a handle on this one (and unless someone tells me I'm seeing ghosts, here's how it goes):
The three wires that come out of the controls that go to the TS's are only about that long, meaning those wires do not run from the wire harness-up through the bars-and to the TS's.
Here's the magic, it's in the CanBus system. There are two wires, twisted together that run through the bars to the controls, they separate in the controls for the different functions. So, the CAnBus wires can send multiple signals, simultaneously, for different functions.
So, those with the connectors in the frame have it easy, all you have to do is connect to them and not worry about routing wires back down from whence they were cut up at the controls. You seal those off and don't have to worry about them.
I had to read up on that Canbus voodoo cause I didn't know anything about it.
Internet says Bosch created it, used on BMW car in the '80's, and saves like 2 kilometers worth of wire on an auto. Now that last bit sounds like the ole' more atoms in a grain of sand than sand on the beach mumbo-jumbo but, anyway, CAnBus, it's not for just breakfast anymore
The three wires that come out of the controls that go to the TS's are only about that long, meaning those wires do not run from the wire harness-up through the bars-and to the TS's.
Here's the magic, it's in the CanBus system. There are two wires, twisted together that run through the bars to the controls, they separate in the controls for the different functions. So, the CAnBus wires can send multiple signals, simultaneously, for different functions.
So, those with the connectors in the frame have it easy, all you have to do is connect to them and not worry about routing wires back down from whence they were cut up at the controls. You seal those off and don't have to worry about them.
I had to read up on that Canbus voodoo cause I didn't know anything about it.
Internet says Bosch created it, used on BMW car in the '80's, and saves like 2 kilometers worth of wire on an auto. Now that last bit sounds like the ole' more atoms in a grain of sand than sand on the beach mumbo-jumbo but, anyway, CAnBus, it's not for just breakfast anymore
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
I may not get to it tonight but I've still got my stuff apart and will take some pics and post back up here, hopefully tomorrow. If not tonight, tomorrow, or my name's not John Jacob Jingle Hymer Smith.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,044
Likes: 336
I do believe I have the connectors in the frame (as I have pulled out the frame gasket and seen them) so when you have time and can take a few pics of where one hooks up the new wires to the connector in the frame for each - I can increase my comfort level and do as you suggested - just cut and seal off the old wires when I cut them at the TS
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
http://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdfo...e98068ac38.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...85cac5ab00.jpg
http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdfo...e11145168e.jpg
http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdfo...fd47d16804.jpg
Disclaimer: Follow me with the same assurance as following the rest of the lemurs!
That being said, I have put a few drops of Loctite super glue on the cut leads in the controls and will wrap them in shrink tubing.
The twisted wires of the five (white with stripes) are the CanBus.
You will need to purchase the matching connector ends for the TS connectors in the frame.
I'll look around tomorrow to see if I can find any parts numbers if I have them for the leads (crimp ends) and the connectors.
Let's just see if these photos post correctly!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdf...85cac5ab00.jpg
http://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdfo...e11145168e.jpg
http://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.hdfo...fd47d16804.jpg
Disclaimer: Follow me with the same assurance as following the rest of the lemurs!
That being said, I have put a few drops of Loctite super glue on the cut leads in the controls and will wrap them in shrink tubing.
The twisted wires of the five (white with stripes) are the CanBus.
You will need to purchase the matching connector ends for the TS connectors in the frame.
I'll look around tomorrow to see if I can find any parts numbers if I have them for the leads (crimp ends) and the connectors.
Let's just see if these photos post correctly!
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,044
Likes: 336
In your first pic -e98068ac38.jpg - that is the same connectors I have inside my frame that run from the switch housing on the bars.
In your next pic -e11145168e.jpg - I see where you cut the 3 wires, Blue/Black/Violet that run from the TS to the Switch Housing.
I'm just not following where the 3 wires Blue/Black/Violet for the TS hook into the (new) connector and where it plugs into inside the frame that appears to be what you are trying to show in your last pic -fd47d16804.jpg
Last edited by JMC22; Apr 28, 2014 at 09:14 PM.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Harley-Davidson Needs to Fix in 2026
Verdad Gallardo
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 4,758
Likes: 953
From: Out West
I have to solder the wires from the TS to the new wires that connect to the connectors.
So you'll have three solder joints to make on each side, and then those wires connect to the connectors.--So you'll have to get three little doo-hickeys crimped on the ends that go into the connector.
That's the crimping business we mentioned earlier.
I should have took pictures of them but I have them connected already, and I have to admit, I do not feel like taking them apart again.
Interesting thing about the Tyco 40 and 70 connectors (and I'm reciting that from memory so, shaky ground there/here..but...The rear connectors are smaller than the front (40vs70). To wit, the doo-hickey connectors (the little metal ends that get crimped on the ends of the wires that get inserted into the connectors that make the connections) are larger in the front connectors than the rear, not interchangeable.
Now, I'm no expert mechanic, I can often figure some things out, and have asked a few questions along the ways, and there's still hope that I'll screw the pooch, but if I can screw the pooch, well, you and all of you can too (insert pooch getting screwed smilie here).
So you'll have three solder joints to make on each side, and then those wires connect to the connectors.--So you'll have to get three little doo-hickeys crimped on the ends that go into the connector.
That's the crimping business we mentioned earlier.
I should have took pictures of them but I have them connected already, and I have to admit, I do not feel like taking them apart again.
Interesting thing about the Tyco 40 and 70 connectors (and I'm reciting that from memory so, shaky ground there/here..but...The rear connectors are smaller than the front (40vs70). To wit, the doo-hickey connectors (the little metal ends that get crimped on the ends of the wires that get inserted into the connectors that make the connections) are larger in the front connectors than the rear, not interchangeable.
Now, I'm no expert mechanic, I can often figure some things out, and have asked a few questions along the ways, and there's still hope that I'll screw the pooch, but if I can screw the pooch, well, you and all of you can too (insert pooch getting screwed smilie here).
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 6,044
Likes: 336
Hey Switch:
I spoke to my local Stealership & they want $150.00 - 1.5 hrs to relocate the TS lights from stock to the forks... seems expensive but then again what isn't with these guys.
Question, if I was to undo the switch housing - do you think it is possible to cut the 3 wires that are inside the shrink wrap between the bottom of the switch housing and the turn signal - pull the 3 cut wires into the switch housing (leaving them still tied to the CanBus) & then just solder on longer leads, shrink wrap them & then feed them thru the bars, down the frame and solder then other ends back to the 3 wires on the TS in the new location?
I appreciate all the assistance you've provided
I spoke to my local Stealership & they want $150.00 - 1.5 hrs to relocate the TS lights from stock to the forks... seems expensive but then again what isn't with these guys.
Question, if I was to undo the switch housing - do you think it is possible to cut the 3 wires that are inside the shrink wrap between the bottom of the switch housing and the turn signal - pull the 3 cut wires into the switch housing (leaving them still tied to the CanBus) & then just solder on longer leads, shrink wrap them & then feed them thru the bars, down the frame and solder then other ends back to the 3 wires on the TS in the new location?
I appreciate all the assistance you've provided
Last edited by JMC22; Apr 29, 2014 at 03:39 PM.