Help, Replaced the battery and still getting the code. Any ideas???

 

On the road without my DTC book, but did you reset/clear the code already?

 

Yes, cleared the code and after about a mile ride, it came back on.

 

This problem is on my brother bike. I'm trying to get him some help here. While I was replacing the seals on my inner primary, I degreased it, put it outside to dry, and someone stole from the front of my house! 5ft from my front door!
Whats the world coming to?

 

Man that sucks, had to be somebody who knows something about bikes I'd imagine.

Wont get back to my Electrical manual until Sunday, the only thing I can think of is maybe replace the pos and neg cables that attach to the battery - they can go bad over time.

Hope you catch a break soon!

 

I will have him check them, thanks.
My 03' Electrical manual isn't much good.
Have a safe trip.

 

After researching this code I found that there has many do this. Every post I read had some thing to do with the voltage regulator.
here is some reading for you.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harl...x-a&channel=sb

 

Its a low voltage code.I have the same code on mine today.The shop replaced the brake rotors and on the test drive,battery and engine light came on.Only getting 11.8 volts at 2000 rpm at the battery.Battery is seven years old.I replaced it just to be safe.Regulator seems to be bad.Stator is in good shape.My bike is a 2007 RKC.

 

On an 06, there's a good chance that the rotor bolts came loose, trashing the stator. Unplug the voltage regulator, and test the stator at the connector with an ohmmeter.

 

I just finished a stator job on the wife's Sportster, she had the same code. Use a multi-meter to check the continuity of the stator (while it isn't running) and then the AC output (while it's running). Then check the regulator/rectifier. She had a bad stator so I replaced it with a Cycle Electrics model. I also replaced the R/R with a Cycle Electrics R/R as well. I'm not sure about the Dyna's but in 2006 the Sportster R/R caused the stator to run at the full 22 amp capacity all the time. The Cycle Electrics R/R corrects that. Her stator failed at just shy of 20k miles.

If it is a stator, you'll have it better than I did because of Sportster clutch mechanism and having to route the stator wire to the other side of the bike.