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Brake Bleeding issues

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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 01:03 PM
  #11  
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This was right after i finished the motor build
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 01:04 PM
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thanks for the videos, ill try anything at this point, i really hate going to the dealer cause we dont have one in he town i live in.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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Good luck, sweet ride by the way!!!! I really dig the front end.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:03 PM
  #14  
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I I had the same issue, I stopped using the bleeder screw and kept pumping the
Lever and mine started pumping the air through the top.
After a few pumps all was well, never had another issue, my brake is
Good as ever.
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 03:13 PM
  #15  
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Sharp looking, thanks for posting the pic!
 
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Old Jul 8, 2014 | 11:59 PM
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I had the same problem when I installed my ape hangers. I took the caliper off pushed the pistons back like I was going to install new pads. Put the caliper back on and open the bleeder let gravity take over. Then I bled the brakes
 
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Old Jul 9, 2014 | 09:27 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by dublenut
I had the same problem when I installed my ape hangers. I took the caliper off pushed the pistons back like I was going to install new pads. Put the caliper back on and open the bleeder let gravity take over. Then I bled the brakes

Ill def give that a try, i left it with a zip on over night and tapped away and still no luck.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2014 | 10:49 AM
  #18  
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DOT 5 will suspend micro bubbles and can be a bitch to get it all bled out. It took me several days to finally get my front brakes bled after rebuilding the master and caliper and replacing the brake line. I tried vacuum bleeding, reverse bleeding, pressure bleeding, and finally resorted to the old fashioned pump-hold-bleed. Nothing worked. I worked and worked at it and finally just got frustrated and walked away for a few days and when I came back, it bled out just fine using the old school method. I started by bleeding the master, connected the line and bled that out, then connected the caliper and bled that out.

After that adventure, I was not looking forward to rebuilding the rear but I bled the rear system using the pump-hold-bleed method and there were no problems at all...took all of about 1 hour from start to finish...including rebuilding the master and caliper, replacing the brake light switch, and flushing out the line.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 12:01 PM
  #19  
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Well after no luck on my part, i bit the bullet and rode to the dealership an hour away....lets just say $150 later its still no better. They said (and i saw) that the master had some scoring on the inside, i also saw this when i did the rebuild kit. But its very faint and i would have a hard time believing that it would cause this. After i mentioned that we tried a second Master before and had no luck. The shop guys had no clue, they worked on it for 3 hours and couldn't get it any better then i already had done. Since the master is the stock black, i decided to order a new chrome one and a new chrome clutch perch, so we will see when they come in later this week.
 

Last edited by JDavis187; Jul 16, 2014 at 12:14 PM.
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Old Jul 16, 2014 | 01:28 PM
  #20  
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you can clean the bore with some high grit paper. if you think that is why. any reason your using dot 5 and not dot 4 as the manual calls for
 
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