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Question about long crank time

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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 06:50 PM
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Default Question about long crank time

I searched, but didn't find a close enough match on this situation.

My bike is a 2013 FXDC with 3k miles, but I've had it for almost 2 years. Handlebars, run-stop-pulse brake light and rear turn sig relocate were done early this year. The only stage one device is a Power Vision. Two months ago, I rode over 100 miles in very heavy rain. The 1k mi service was done by a dealer less than six months ago and about 2k miles ago. These are the facts that might potentially affect my issue.

Now the Situation. A new condition has occurred in the last two weeks (It has been two months since riding in rain and three months since the mods.) Suddenly, the bike started cranking for a long time. The crank is strong. It sounds like it is flooded, (but it is FI.) Idle volts are 12.9, cranking volts 12.5 and running volts are 14.5. The condition happens on the first crank of the day or when hot. It also happens with PV on stock map or FM stock improved map. I read a lot of posts on cranking and trouble starting, so I tried something mentioned with other start problems.

Toggling the run switch before turning on the ignition works inconsistently. I have the best luck if I'm able to time functions so that the run button is flipped within a microsecond of the light going out, AND I hit the start button within a microsecond of the fuel priming whir stopping. A second too late or too early results in long cranking. I know that I did not have to be so exact as recently as two weeks ago.

Could this really be something like a loose connection? Or do I need a load test on the battery (even with a strong crank?) It stays on a battery tender when not running. What are your suggestions, please? Or should I shut up and ride?

Thanks for your time an your thoughts.
 

Last edited by boro; Aug 5, 2014 at 06:54 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 07:07 PM
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You mentioned rain. Have you checked for moisture in the connections to or from the ECM?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 07:48 PM
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If I remember there are posts that refer to an issue with the PV tuner and crank time. If no one chimes in on this, call Jamie at FuelmotoUSA for the info.
 

Last edited by checkers; Aug 5, 2014 at 07:51 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 08:45 PM
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Not sure if this will help or not, but I have read a few posts on this as well and many say to not wait until the light goes out before starting. I started doing this earlier this year and the bike starts much faster than waiting for the light to go off. Also I do not have a PV, the previous owner installed a Fuel Pak which has not given me any problems at all but will be upgraded when I finally get around to doing some motor work.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 09:17 PM
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Load the stock map from the PV to rule it out. If still same then flash the map you already had . Are you hearing you compression releases open when you shut bike off? How long is the actual crank time when you say it is delayed?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2014 | 10:47 PM
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Thanks for the replies. I hadn't checked moisture in ECM connections, because the problem started so long after the rain. But, you have made me rethink that; this will be my next to do.

The PV was installed before riding in the rain. I have a windshield, but I'll check for moisture there while getting into the other areas. And, I'll give FM a call.

I tried hitting start button before the red light goes out. That results in long crank, also.

I have had the stock map loaded for a couple of days. That is the first thing I tried. Starter reacts the same as with the FM improved map. The longest I have let the crank run is 4 seconds. Sorry, but I don't know what compression release sounds like when it opens. I'll search for an audio of it. Just did some searching on compression release. Does a 2013 96 c.i. have automatic compression release? Or is that 103 and above?

Got a lot to start with. I'll post back when I get to these. Thanks, again.
 

Last edited by boro; Aug 5, 2014 at 11:03 PM.
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 12:04 AM
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My '13 Fat Bob with the 103 does the exact same thing. Exactly. I have posted about it and the consensus is that it's normal. I have tried all sorts of timings with the run and start switch and nothing works consistently. It seems completely random but I think does have some correlation to engine temp. I have decided to not worry about it. I always enjoy when it occasionally starts up on the first revolution as opposed to the second or third.

My '04 Wide Glide FI starts in less than a second of cranking, btw. I wonder if the ACRs on our 103s have something to do with it.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 12:59 AM
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I have similar starting problem on my 107ci lately, changed a few setting and it seemed to work. Go to winpv sofware, start up fuel table decrease 10% on each block. Warming fuel table decrease 15% on each block as well. It works for me, no guarantee tho.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 07:08 AM
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Mine is doing practically the same thing, but it never fails to start. Guess we should feel lucky that we don't have to start the monster with the kick starter.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Best way to start these beasts is not to wait until the priming stops. All the teks at HD asked my why I wait? I told them that's what your salesman said + it is written in the manual. They said don't wait especially if the motor is hot. Since 2009 when I got my power commander I've been cranking - in neutral - clutch in - as soon as I hear the fuel pump prime and she always fires up immediately. Try that out for a while. At least a week before jumping to some other conclusion. In fact there is no reason for you to wait until thefuel pump has turned off ever
 
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